--
Birdie:
Thanx for the below on mold. You have convinced me on the cause.
Everything seems to fit after I read your comments.
I now believe that it is the reason I could not sustain worm growth
in my compost. I have two fair size bins which I will return to earth
as soon as the snow leaves us here in Mass.I was told to LYME THE
HELL OUT OF IT but will now start over.
I just reread the posted message of the growers who moved to Canada
and left their mold problem behind when they grew OUTDOORS.
Could it be that those who seem to have less of the problem are the
ones who always use new soil and throw away the trays? I also have
people say that fans help control the problem, but how could it if
all it does is move the spores around?
PAX, Ernie

- In wheatgrass@yahoogroups.com, "Birdie Hanson" <wordiebirdie@y...>
wrote:
>
>
> I'm new to this group, but I've been juicing wheatgrass for almost
a
> year. Recently, I was licensed by the State of Texas, as was the
> company I work for, as a "mold remediator". That means we know
> about mold and how to remove it from your home or business. First
> off, microscopic mold spores are everywhere and you can't kill
> them. They pose no threat until they find a place to grow and
> reproduce. Unfortunately, they're not picky. Any organic wet
place
> will do, for example, a tray of wheatgrass. The fungal,
> reproductive part of mold CAN be killed and removed and
> the "wetness" CAN be eliminated, but still there are the airborne
> microscopic spores. They just float around and wait for another
wet
> opportunity to appear. Bottom line, once you've grown mold on
> wheatgrass indoors, you'll continue to produce mold and get better
> at it! Each successive indoor tray of moldy wheatgrass will
release
> even more spores into your home's environment, which will
> continually increase the concentration of mold spores in your
indoor
> air. I grow most of my wheatgrass outdoors and have had no mold
> problems, but during December and January, I needed to bring the
> flats inside. My last two trays were moldy. I mention this to let
> you know that I will NOT add the mats to my compost heap and those
> trays will be cleaned with Chlorox before using again!
>
> For those who are curious about how to remove mold from your home
or
> business, I'll let you know that it's neither easy nor cheap.
First,
> all wet, organic materials are removed. That can be carpet, wood,
> drywall, paper, anything containing cellulose, which means, organic.
> Next, "containment" is created, by sealing up all windows, doors,
or
> other outlets with plastic sheeting. A 3 stage entryway is
created,
> so that workers can don or remove environmental suits, respirators
> and gloves without transporting spores into either environment.
> Once contained, the air is dehumidified and "sucked out" with
> professional equipment. EVERY surface is vacuumed using a HEPA
> filtered vacuum AND wiped clean of any residual mold spores. The
> remediation process is considered complete when the indoor air
tests
> favorably for acceptable mold concentrations.
>
> I hope this information was helpful.
>
> Birdie Hanson
> San Antonio, TX