To that BBS shave.I get really close on the cheeks and upper lip,but
the chin and neck are still just so-so.I'm also nicking myself less :).

Thanks!!

--- In straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com, "C Watson" <docwatsn@...>
wrote:
>
> On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 11:39 AM, collectorguy23
<collectorguy23@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Is it any good?
> >
>
>
> Depends.  There are a few different scents that it comes in.  Also
many of
> the barbershops around here have the bay rum version on it's
shelves and
> splash it on after they shave your neck.  As an aftershave it's not
bad (in
> my opinion)  however, I find that the scent is too strong for my
taste.
>
>
> --
> -Clyde
> _,,,\|/,--------------------------------------------------
> (_ /|\ Clyde Watson, docwatsn@...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 11:39 AM, collectorguy23 <collectorguy23@...>
wrote:

> Is it any good?
>


Depends.  There are a few different scents that it comes in.  Also many of
the barbershops around here have the bay rum version on it's shelves and
splash it on after they shave your neck.  As an aftershave it's not bad (in
my opinion)  however, I find that the scent is too strong for my taste.


--
-Clyde
_,,,\|/,--------------------------------------------------
(_ /|\ Clyde Watson, docwatsn@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Is it any good?

Thanks Glen,
    Here is a link from the SRP site that may add more to what you already know:
http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/19779-celluloid-scale-rot-i-d-\
repair.html

Cheers,
Bill


Glen <glenpc@...> wrote:                             Bill,

  I've had several razors suffer from outgassing on the celluloid scales.
  I've tried various oils, including mineral, wd-40, 3 in 1, and valvoline 30
  wt.  Nothing seems to help .  Additionally, I had to remove these razors
  from the group they were staying in as the outgassing caused rusting on
  neighboring razors when the outgassing became severe.

  I've read about where people have used a metal sealant/clear coat on the
  blade because they wanted to keep the original scales on there and then not
  shave with it.  B I've just ended up replacing the scales either with
  plastic or making some out of cherry wood.  I'm not trying to preserve the
  collector's value on the razor so replaced scales weren't a problem for me.
  I've got 2 WB razors that have outgassed horribly that I'm trying to clean
  up right now.

  If someone else has had better experience with something not mentioned
  before I would love to hear about it as well.

  Glen F

  On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 10:38 AM, Bill Watkins <bill.watkins@...>
  wrote:

  >   I have in the past read about celluloid scales starting to break down
  > and emitting some type of gas that will start to rust the blade.
  > While looking thru my collection to pick out razors to post on the
  > Show & Tell forum at SRP.com I found a Carl Monkhouse razor with a
  > blade that was rusted and pitted on the lower half of the blade. I
  > think that I can grind out the rust and pits but don't remember if one
  > can then coat the blade with a light grease or something to prevent
  > any further rusting.
  > I also remember someone saying that since this razor's scales are
  > already emitting this gas that it should not be placed near any other
  > blades as it will also rust them.
  > I would like to keep the scales but don't know if I can for sure.
  > Maybe I can keep the razor isolated if the grease on the blade will
  > protect the blade. How far away from another razor can I store this to
  > prevent it from rusting another blade.
  > Does anyone have any more experience in this area?
  >
  >
  >

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bill,

I've had several razors suffer from outgassing on the celluloid scales.
I've tried various oils, including mineral, wd-40, 3 in 1, and valvoline 30
wt.  Nothing seems to help .  Additionally, I had to remove these razors
from the group they were staying in as the outgassing caused rusting on
neighboring razors when the outgassing became severe.

I've read about where people have used a metal sealant/clear coat on the
blade because they wanted to keep the original scales on there and then not
shave with it.  B I've just ended up replacing the scales either with
plastic or making some out of cherry wood.  I'm not trying to preserve the
collector's value on the razor so replaced scales weren't a problem for me.
I've got 2 WB razors that have outgassed horribly that I'm trying to clean
up right now.

If someone else has had better experience with something not mentioned
before I would love to hear about it as well.

Glen F

On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 10:38 AM, Bill Watkins <bill.watkins@...>
wrote:

>   I have in the past read about celluloid scales starting to break down
> and emitting some type of gas that will start to rust the blade.
> While looking thru my collection to pick out razors to post on the
> Show & Tell forum at SRP.com I found a Carl Monkhouse razor with a
> blade that was rusted and pitted on the lower half of the blade. I
> think that I can grind out the rust and pits but don't remember if one
> can then coat the blade with a light grease or something to prevent
> any further rusting.
> I also remember someone saying that since this razor's scales are
> already emitting this gas that it should not be placed near any other
> blades as it will also rust them.
> I would like to keep the scales but don't know if I can for sure.
> Maybe I can keep the razor isolated if the grease on the blade will
> protect the blade. How far away from another razor can I store this to
> prevent it from rusting another blade.
> Does anyone have any more experience in this area?
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have in the past read about celluloid scales starting to break down
and emitting some type of gas that will start to rust the blade.
While looking thru my collection to pick out razors to post on the
Show & Tell forum at SRP.com I found a Carl Monkhouse razor with a
blade that was rusted and pitted on the lower half of the blade. I
think that I can grind out the rust and pits but don't remember if one
can then coat the blade with a light grease or something to prevent
any further rusting.
I also remember someone saying that since this razor's scales are
already emitting this gas that it should not be placed near any other
blades as it will also rust them.
I would like to keep the scales but don't know if I can for sure.
Maybe I can keep the razor isolated if the grease on the blade will
protect the blade. How far away from another razor can I store this to
prevent it from rusting another blade.
Does anyone have any more experience in this area?

Hi all. I found the group from my original straight razor resource at
shavemyface.com. Its A great site that helped me not look like a
jack-o-lantern. Currently I have two straight razors and a shavette.

C-MON

I started about two months ago with a shavette. About a month ago I
upgraded to a full blade. I bought a C-MON Cadillac. The guy told me
that it was honed and didn't require more than a good stropping. I
didn't believe it but I tried it anyway. What a mistake. It cut a
little and pulled a lot. I was going to buy a stone but they are about
$80 for a 4000/8000, so maybe later. I had read about using abrasive
paper instead. I ended up buying 15 micron and a .5 micron papers. I'm
a little wary sharpening the blade for the first time as what I had
read did not mention if it is done in the same fashion as a stone,
with the spline touching the paper. I assume it is.

Wade & Butcher

I also had the great opportunity to purchase a really old Damascus
Wade & Butcher razor that I found at an antique store for $15.
According to uniclectica.com/misc/manuf.html it's from between 1818
and 1890.

The scales are broken at the point pin but the shank pin is pretty
firm. The scales also look like plastic but I think I feel a wood
grain where it is worn down. Did they even have plastic then? Also,
when looking really close I can see dings on the edge which I hope to
hone out. I'll post a few pics of this razor later tonight.

I plan to remove the rust and clean the blade, shank and tang but I
have to figure out how to do it so the writing is not damaged. There
is a fair amount of rust on it and I'm hoping the 3M superfine pad
will work. I need to find out if this is done wet or dry. I also plan
on replacing the scales with something I am going to make. I don't
think I will ever use this razor to shave but I would love to have it
looking awesome.

Keep an eye on The Gentlemans Shop in the UK. They have been selling some
vintage Cyril Salter razors recently (read- 1960s Giesen and Forsthoff blades
rehandled and marketted by Cyril Salter) and although they don't seem to have
any in stock at present, that's where I got my two 8/8s and my spike point 7/8
from. Their prices were good.

-Andrew


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: steve Faison
   To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 9:19 PM
   Subject: [Straight Razor Place] Re: HELP!



   I just purchased a W&B 5/8 carbon wedge on ebay... can't wait to get it.
   I'm looking for 7/8 anything if anyone knows of where to find one. I don't see
many new
   ones unless they are really expensive. I've not seen new wedges anywhere.
   Happy shaving everyone.

   --- In straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Curl" <methuselah@...>
wrote:

   >
   > Carbon steel is still the most commonly used. Stainless is harder to bring
to an edge, but
   requires less maintenance because it won't rust if neglected.
   > Sheffield steel is the benchmark, but swedish steel is supposed to be very
fine stuff-
   Thiers-Issard (french) use sheffield carbon steel just 'cos they reckon its
the best, Dovo
   (german) use swedish stainless steel in one or two of their models. These are
two good
   manufacturers who can be relied on for quality blades, if not their sharpness
out of the
   box.
   > Lastly, most start with a 5/8 blade. They are easy to learn with. The
narrower the blade,
   the more nimble it is- I've a 4/8 with which I catch myself every other time I
use it, and a
   3/8 reserved only for trimming in awkward spots. Broader blades have plain
more heft,
   and require more skill to manipulate. I do not know of anyone who still makes
a wedge
   razor.
   >
   > -Andrew UK
   >
   >
   > ----- Original Message -----
   > From: Tommy
   > To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
   > Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 5:39 PM
   > Subject: [Straight Razor Place] HELP!
   >
   >
   >
   > I am glad to join your group and have several questions to ask.
   >
   > My father is a Master Barber in Milwuakee, WI since 1961. He uses a
   > striaght razor daily, but now seems to favor the replacable blade type
   > for cleaning around the ears and clearing off the neck area. In all the
   > years I watched my father he would never teach me about the straight
   > razor. Now, 4000 miles away in Alaska my only teacher is this group--how
   > sad?!
   >
   > I did ask my father a few questions yesterday. He told me that he
   > favored the German razors and really like razors from Sweden. He has
   > promised to send me some of the old ones he has around the shop for me
   > to preactice honeing.
   >
   > Okay--the questions. Do they still make carbon blades? (Dad seems to
   > think he never used anything but carbon razors.), what size razor do you
   > prefer, and why?, Do they still make wedge razors, and who makes them?
   > (Dad really likes these for bust'n beards), Who makes a good brand of
   > straight razor, and why? (No fighting either!)
   >
   > Thanks a lot!
   >
   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >
   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   >





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Aspirin is also found naturally in most fresh fruits :p.



On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 1:38 PM, Andrew Curl <methuselah@...>
wrote:

>   Aspirin is acetyl salycylic acid in a chalk tablet with some inert
> binding agent, and probably coated with acacia gum, which is in everything
> imaginable anyway.
>
> -Andrew UK
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sebastian Hamberg
> To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com<straightrazorplace%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Straight Razor Place] Re: Shaving bumps
>
> Hi there
>
> About the aspirin. Is it the aspirin itself that is an anti inflammatory
> agent, or is it some other ingredient in the aspirin?
>
> On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 7:20 PM, steve Faison
<stevefaison@...<stevefaison%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
>
> > -
> > Aspirin is an anti inflammatory agent.
> > I have suffered from razor bumps all of my life with conventional shaving
> > methods. trac II,
> > electric, even DE... but never for a straight razor.
> >
> > -- In
straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com<straightrazorplace%40yahoogroups.com>
> <straightrazorplace%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "palger25" <palger25@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > This may be common knowledge to the rest of you, but my wife told me
> > > that if you get shaving bumps you can wet an aspirin and rub it on the
> > > bumps. I tried it and they disappear very quickly.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I just purchased a W&B 5/8 carbon wedge on ebay... can't wait  to get it.
I'm looking for 7/8 anything if anyone knows of where to find one.  I don't see
many new
ones unless they are really expensive. I've not seen new wedges anywhere.
Happy shaving everyone.


--- In straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Curl" <methuselah@...> wrote:

>
> Carbon steel is still the most commonly used. Stainless is harder to bring to
an edge, but
requires less maintenance because it won't rust if neglected.
> Sheffield steel is the benchmark, but swedish steel is supposed to be very
fine stuff-
Thiers-Issard (french) use sheffield carbon steel just 'cos they reckon its the
best, Dovo
(german) use swedish stainless steel in one or two of their models. These are
two good
manufacturers who can be relied on for quality blades, if not their sharpness
out of the
box.
> Lastly, most start with a 5/8 blade. They are easy to learn with. The narrower
the blade,
the more nimble it is- I've a 4/8 with which I catch myself every other time I
use it, and a
3/8 reserved only for trimming in awkward spots. Broader blades have plain more
heft,
and require more skill to manipulate. I do not know of anyone who still makes a
wedge
razor.
>
> -Andrew UK
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Tommy
>   To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 5:39 PM
>   Subject: [Straight Razor Place] HELP!
>
>
>
>   I am glad to join your group and have several questions to ask.
>
>   My father is a Master Barber in Milwuakee, WI since 1961. He uses a
>   striaght razor daily, but now seems to favor the replacable blade type
>   for cleaning around the ears and clearing off the neck area. In all the
>   years I watched my father he would never teach me about the straight
>   razor. Now, 4000 miles away in Alaska my only teacher is this group--how
>   sad?!
>
>   I did ask my father a few questions yesterday. He told me that he
>   favored the German razors and really like razors from Sweden. He has
>   promised to send me some of the old ones he has around the shop for me
>   to preactice honeing.
>
>   Okay--the questions. Do they still make carbon blades? (Dad seems to
>   think he never used anything but carbon razors.), what size razor do you
>   prefer, and why?, Do they still make wedge razors, and who makes them?
>   (Dad really likes these for bust'n beards), Who makes a good brand of
>   straight razor, and why? (No fighting either!)
>
>   Thanks a lot!
>
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Aspirin is acetyl salycylic acid in a chalk tablet with some inert binding
agent, and probably coated with acacia gum, which is in everything imaginable
anyway.

-Andrew UK


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Sebastian Hamberg
   To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:24 PM
   Subject: Re: [Straight Razor Place] Re: Shaving bumps


   Hi there

   About the aspirin. Is it the aspirin itself that is an anti inflammatory
   agent, or is it some other ingredient in the aspirin?

   On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 7:20 PM, steve Faison <stevefaison@...> wrote:

   > -
   > Aspirin is an anti inflammatory agent.
   > I have suffered from razor bumps all of my life with conventional shaving
   > methods. trac II,
   > electric, even DE... but never for a straight razor.
   >
   > -- In
straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com<straightrazorplace%40yahoogroups.com>,
   > "palger25" <palger25@...> wrote:
   > >
   > > This may be common knowledge to the rest of you, but my wife told me
   > > that if you get shaving bumps you can wet an aspirin and rub it on the
   > > bumps. I tried it and they disappear very quickly.
   > >
   >
   >
   >

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

HI Tommy,
    Glad that you joined. That will be cool to have your Dad's razor.  Yes, they
still make carbon razors and also stainless steel ones.  Several start out with
a 5/8's but it is usually a personal preference thing after you have been doing
it for awhile you can choose yourself.  If you have a pretty tough beard a 6/8
or 7/8 might work better.  I am not sure if anyone nowadays makes a wedge or
not.  You may have to go to eBay to get one.  But your Dad is right they are
stiff and will not bend while cutting a heavy beard.  Thiers-Issard and Dovo and
several others are good.  You can look around at this link to get an idea of
what you may want.  Also the sister site at www.straightrazorplace.com has a
wealth of info that you can learn from.

http://www.classicshaving.com/Home.html

Hope that this helps. It will at least get you started.

Cheers,
Bill






Tommy <paddle2me@...> wrote:
  I am glad to join your group and have several questions to ask.

  My father is a Master Barber in Milwuakee, WI since 1961. He uses a
  striaght razor daily, but now seems to favor the replacable blade type
  for cleaning around the ears and clearing off the neck area. In all the
  years I watched my father he would never teach me about the straight
  razor. Now, 4000 miles away in Alaska my only teacher is this group--how
  sad?!

  I did ask my father a few questions yesterday. He told me that he
  favored the German razors and really like razors from Sweden. He has
  promised to send me some of the old ones he has around the shop for me
  to preactice honeing.

  Okay--the questions. Do they still make carbon blades? (Dad seems to
  think he never used anything but carbon razors.), what size razor do you
  prefer, and why?, Do they still make wedge razors, and who makes them?
  (Dad really likes these for bust'n beards), Who makes a good brand of
  straight razor, and why? (No fighting either!)

  Thanks a lot!

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Carbon steel is still the most commonly used. Stainless is harder to bring to an
edge, but requires less maintenance because it won't rust if neglected.
Sheffield steel is the benchmark, but swedish steel is supposed to be very fine
stuff- Thiers-Issard (french) use sheffield carbon steel just 'cos they reckon
its the best, Dovo (german) use swedish stainless steel in one or two of their
models. These are two good manufacturers who can be relied on for quality
blades, if not their sharpness out of the box.
Lastly, most start with a 5/8 blade. They are easy to learn with. The narrower
the blade, the more nimble it is- I've a 4/8 with which I catch myself every
other time I use it, and a 3/8 reserved only for trimming in awkward spots.
Broader blades have plain more heft, and require more skill to manipulate. I do
not know of anyone who still makes a wedge razor.

-Andrew UK


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Tommy
   To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 5:39 PM
   Subject: [Straight Razor Place] HELP!



   I am glad to join your group and have several questions to ask.

   My father is a Master Barber in Milwuakee, WI since 1961. He uses a
   striaght razor daily, but now seems to favor the replacable blade type
   for cleaning around the ears and clearing off the neck area. In all the
   years I watched my father he would never teach me about the straight
   razor. Now, 4000 miles away in Alaska my only teacher is this group--how
   sad?!

   I did ask my father a few questions yesterday. He told me that he
   favored the German razors and really like razors from Sweden. He has
   promised to send me some of the old ones he has around the shop for me
   to preactice honeing.

   Okay--the questions. Do they still make carbon blades? (Dad seems to
   think he never used anything but carbon razors.), what size razor do you
   prefer, and why?, Do they still make wedge razors, and who makes them?
   (Dad really likes these for bust'n beards), Who makes a good brand of
   straight razor, and why? (No fighting either!)

   Thanks a lot!

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi there

About the aspirin. Is it the aspirin itself that is an anti inflammatory
agent, or is it some other ingredient in the aspirin?

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 7:20 PM, steve Faison <stevefaison@...> wrote:

>   -
> Aspirin is an anti inflammatory agent.
> I have suffered from razor bumps all of my life with conventional shaving
> methods. trac II,
> electric, even DE... but never for a straight razor.
>
> -- In
straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com<straightrazorplace%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "palger25" <palger25@...> wrote:
> >
> > This may be common knowledge to the rest of you, but my wife told me
> > that if you get shaving bumps you can wet an aspirin and rub it on the
> > bumps. I tried it and they disappear very quickly.
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am glad to join your group and have several questions to ask.

My father is a Master Barber in Milwuakee, WI since 1961. He uses a
striaght razor daily, but now seems to favor the replacable blade type
for cleaning around the ears and clearing off the neck area. In all the
years I watched my father he would never teach me about the straight
razor. Now, 4000 miles away in Alaska my only teacher is this group--how
sad?!

I did ask my father a few questions yesterday. He told me that he
favored the German razors and really like razors from Sweden. He has
promised to send me some of the old ones he has around the shop for me
to preactice honeing.

Okay--the questions. Do they still make carbon blades? (Dad seems to
think he never used anything but carbon razors.), what size razor do you
prefer, and why?, Do they still make wedge razors, and who makes them?
(Dad really likes these for bust'n beards), Who makes a good brand of
straight razor, and why? (No fighting either!)

Thanks a lot!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks George, I am a newbie myself and have received a lot of help on
the sight.
Gerry
Seaville, NJ (South Jersey)
>
> I use Maas. If you don't have a dremel, and don't want to spend the
money
> on one, you can work the tarnish out with Maas and some Q-tips. Just be
> very very careful. It's extremely easy to get your finger in there and
> cut yourself!
>
> George
> Tahlequah, OK
>
> PS. If you guys followed your name with your location, perhaps more
> newbies could locate mentors near their homes. Just an idea. I got into
> the habit when I belonged to a group which required it.
>
> >>Tarnished Razor
> >>Posted by: "palger25" palger25@...   palger25
> >>Thu May 29, 2008 9:56 am (PDT)
> >>I bought an old Geneva razor and the blade is tarnished. Can I use
> >>some regular tarnish remover before I have it honed?
> ____________________________________________________________
> Rock Solid Web Hosting. Click Here.
>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nBPWwcKOGHeseUqLWcuP4jBFkVM6r\
01Op9AfdhHIJKMj6qK/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I use Maas. If you don't have a dremel, and don't want to spend the money
on one, you can work the tarnish out with Maas and some Q-tips. Just be
very very careful. It's extremely easy to get your finger in there and
cut yourself!

George
Tahlequah, OK

PS. If you guys followed your name with your location, perhaps more
newbies could locate mentors near their homes. Just an idea. I got into
the habit when I belonged to a group which required it.

>>Tarnished Razor
>>Posted by: "palger25" palger25@...   palger25
>>Thu May 29, 2008 9:56 am (PDT)
>>I bought an old Geneva razor and the blade is tarnished. Can I use
>>some regular tarnish remover before I have it honed?
____________________________________________________________
Rock Solid Web Hosting. Click Here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nBPWwcKOGHeseUqLWcuP4jBFkVM6r\
01Op9AfdhHIJKMj6qK/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-
Aspirin is an anti inflammatory agent.
I have suffered from razor bumps all of my life with conventional shaving
methods. trac II,
electric, even DE... but never for a straight razor.

-- In straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com, "palger25" <palger25@...> wrote:
>
> This may be common knowledge to the rest of you, but my wife told me
> that if you get shaving bumps you can wet an aspirin and rub it on the
> bumps. I tried it and they disappear very quickly.
>

most folks will use something like maas or flitz and either clean it by hand
or use a rotary tool such as a dremel with a felt buffing pad to clean the
tarnish off.

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 12:56 PM, palger25 <palger25@...> wrote:

>   I bought an old Geneva razor and the blade is tarnished. Can I use
> some regular tarnish remover before I have it honed?
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I bought an old Geneva razor and the blade is tarnished. Can I use
some regular tarnish remover before I have it honed?

This may be common knowledge to the rest of you, but my wife told me
that if you get shaving bumps you can wet an aspirin and rub it on the
bumps. I tried it and they disappear very quickly.

HI !
I was having the very same trouble with a  Dovo I purchased new. I took
it to a fine Frictionite stone and struggled with it on and off for
about 6 or 7 months. Each time it went to the stone, it was sharp as it
could get and passed the HH test each time. Several weeks ago there was
a post here that was quite long and detailed, describing the process of
what has to take place before a blade will take an edge and it was that
post that opened my eyes. What I had been doing was fine but it was not
enough apparently and what was needed was to spend much more time on the
stone "Setting the Bevel" . In my case, I was being very gentle with it
and doing as few passes with as light pressure as I could get but
because of the fine grit of the Frictionite I had not even touched
getting the "Bevel set" and then getting the edge to last.

After spending a few hours working the blade 1st dry then in a water
bath and finally a good lather on the stone for the final set of
strokes, it took an edge that still passes the HH test etc. but after 15
shaves it is still working as good as it did that 1st shave.

Now, it should just take the light 3 or 4 stroke touch up every 3 or 4
months or as needed.

I was very lucky in that I had been given a second razor that was New
Old Stock that had been prepared for me and then bought a stunning A.
Witte Classic razor with custom scales from the same person after I had
gotten my feet wet. Both of those razors I have never had any trouble
getting sharp or keeping them that way as they had the Bevel set by the
person that sent them to me.

One other thing I had to change was the way I stropped the razor. I have
a nice Dovo strop I bought with the Dovo razor and started using it
attached to the wall but soon found (totally by accident) that when I
was honing it was easier for me to lay the strop flat on one of my large
"Art" books in my lap and slowly start on the linen then to the leather
side for finishing. It was amazing what a difference it made in my
stropping. Everything at that point worked the way it is supposed to. I
had always been careful to hold the strop tightly and not roll the razor
or go too fast and really thought I had done it correctly but after
using it in my lap that one time I decided to just go with that as it
produced a much much better edge than I had ever gotten with it hanging.
Of course, its what worked for me.

I don't post too often and normally prefer to read but I just wanted to
share my experience with an issue that was pretty much the same as what
you are experiencing. It just takes some time and patience but I'm sure
you will get it! Hope this helps in some small way.
All My Best,
stew

There are videos both on disk and on youtube they do help some but it's
largely patience and practice, you can simply search "straight razor" and
skim through the videos.  You'll see several shaving videos and several
sharpening videos. There is a series there from the srp dvd that someone
broke up into segments.

  In person is somewhat better because the tutor can see what your doing and
possibly spot potential bad habit forming mistakes and warn you.

I had a 1 on 1 session where everything from prep to stropping to shaving to
sharpening was covered and it still took me a bit of practice before I got
things down to where I could adequately sharpen a blade.  I even had to
change the technique to suit my personality as well but followed the basic
principles.  I use 2 hands for shaving, 2 hands for sharpening, etc.  Others
use only one hand on either or both.  The fine details of what started
working for me may not work for you, and visa versa.



On Wed, May 28, 2008 at 4:21 PM, Ken Schillinger <ken@...> wrote:

>   Hi Michael, I can't help much with the sharpening, as my ability is hit
> and
> miss at best. I just wanted to send a welcome from South Whidbey! All of
> the
> guys here will tell you how great a shave they get from a str8, which is
> partially true, it takes time to get there though, and requires patience.
> Best regards, Ken.
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mike check out this link and see if it doesn't help.  It is the Honing and
Stropping piece from Lynn Abrams CD about razor stuff.  Lynn is the originator
of this site and the sister site straightrazorplace.com.

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/videos/20899-part-3-lynns-straight-razo\
r-dvd.html

Cheers,
Bill

Michael in Seattle <mikeoak840@...> wrote:                             I'm a
newbie to the group and have been lurking about 10 days. I've also
  recently purchased a Dovo and have been thinking I should send it for
  sharpening/honing - I've used it once (after carefully stropping) and it's a
  combination of not a clean cut AND some pulling. If what I've read is
  correct, if you feel pulling or dragging, it's not sharp enough.

  And as Christopher mentions, I too am one who'll understand it better seeing
  it for five minutes, but I could probably read it for five hundred times and
  wonder if I had it right. Eventually, yes, there'd be the Eureka Moment with
  "Aha! Now I get it!"

  But perhaps someone could do a YouTube of how to get that first sharp edge
  on a newbie's razor?

  Mike in Seattle

  -----Original Message-----
  From: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Christopher
  Westfall
  Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 12:58 PM
  To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [Straight Razor Place] Re: Keeping it sharp

  >>I can't help but think that just a few minutes in person actually
  >>demonstrating techniques is what I really need.  I recall hearing
  >>mention of a gathering?  Is there such a thing?  Is there one coming
  >>up this Summer?
  >>
  >>-- Toaph






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Michael, I can't help much with the sharpening, as my ability is hit and
miss at best. I just wanted to send a welcome from South Whidbey! All of the
guys here will tell you how great a shave they get from a str8, which is
partially true, it takes time to get there though, and requires patience.
Best regards, Ken.

I'm a newbie to the group and have been lurking about 10 days. I've also
recently purchased a Dovo and have been thinking I should send it for
sharpening/honing - I've used it once (after carefully stropping) and it's a
combination of not a clean cut AND some pulling. If what I've read is
correct, if you feel pulling or dragging, it's not sharp enough.

And as Christopher mentions, I too am one who'll understand it better seeing
it for five minutes, but I could probably read it for five hundred times and
wonder if I had it right. Eventually, yes, there'd be the Eureka Moment with
"Aha! Now I get it!"

But perhaps someone could do a YouTube of how to get that first sharp edge
on a newbie's razor?

Mike in Seattle


-----Original Message-----
From: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Christopher
Westfall
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 12:58 PM
To: straightrazorplace@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Straight Razor Place] Re: Keeping it sharp

>>I can't help but think that just a few minutes in person actually
>>demonstrating techniques is what I really need.  I recall hearing
>>mention of a gathering?  Is there such a thing?  Is there one coming
>>up this Summer?
>>
>>-- Toaph

> The problem I am having with my basic Dovo razor ("Bismark") is that
> while I can get it sharp, I have trouble keeping it that way.

I'm having a similar problem.  I find that my blade goes dull very,
very quickly.  I recently sharpened it using Lynn's pyramid technique,
and got it about as sharp as I've ever had it.  It shaved as if
through butter.  Then, the VERY NEXT TIME I went to use it, it was so
dull I just didn't want to shave with it.

The comments here are all good, but I'm finding that written
descriptions are simply not adequate to get to the root of the
problem.  The explanations I read here often help my understanding,
but when I try to put them into practice I wind up with more questions
than when I started.

I can't help but think that just a few minutes in person actually
demonstrating techniques is what I really need.  I recall hearing
mention of a gathering?  Is there such a thing?  Is there one coming
up this Summer?

-- Toaph

Hey--it's not very nice to make fun of  women with hairy chins! ROFL!

   ;-)'s Elizabeth

palger25 <palger25@...> wrote:
           Thanks Elizabeth, Obviously you are experienced at shaving your chin:)
>
> LOL at "keep at it"! Yes, keep at it and then locate that winter
inssue of People Magazine; they had a feature article called, "Sexy
Scars."
>
> Just kiddin'
>
> Elizabeth
>
>
> organist@... wrote:
> On 25 May 2008 at 13:28, Nicola Menicacci wrote:
>
> > I think the area around the chin is of course the most sensitive
and hardest to shave but also that
> > around which all your biggest concerns about getting cut, bleed
and hurt converge more easily.
>
> Hmmmm...... Interesting observation. I agree that the chin area are
is most
> difficult, and I have nicked myself there on occasion, but not
severely. The
> worst cuts have been on my cheek, a shaving area of least concern.
These
> were all when I was quickly shaving along and all of a sudden, CUT! The
> lesson is, once you get very proficient and comfortable, don't get
too relaxed
> and let your mind wander.
>
> Best wishes,
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Elizabeth, Obviously you are experienced at shaving your chin:)
>
> LOL at "keep  at it"! Yes, keep at it and then locate that winter
inssue of People Magazine; they had a feature article called, "Sexy
Scars."
>
>   Just kiddin'
>
>   Elizabeth
>
>
> organist@... wrote:
>           On 25 May 2008 at 13:28, Nicola Menicacci wrote:
>
> > I think the area around the chin is of course the most sensitive
and hardest to shave but also that
> > around which all your biggest concerns about getting cut, bleed
and hurt converge more easily.
>
> Hmmmm...... Interesting observation. I agree that the chin area are
is most
> difficult, and I have nicked myself there on occasion, but not
severely. The
> worst cuts have been on my cheek, a shaving area of least concern.
These
> were all when I was quickly shaving along and all of a sudden, CUT! The
> lesson is, once you get very proficient and comfortable, don't get
too relaxed
> and let your mind wander.
>
> Best wishes,
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>