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#835 From: V <lights@...>
Date: Wed May 7, 2008 4:42 am
Subject: common misconceptions about electricity
vzon17
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Some common misconceptions about electricity.

http://amasci.com/miscon/elect.html

#834 From: V <lights@...>
Date: Tue May 6, 2008 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Auto Switching Unit
vzon17
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Hi Mike,

this one is pretty simple it can be done with the chip, 3 resistors and one
capacitor. I have them shrunk down so small it will fit on a penny. Also have
ones that will fit on a quarter, want to try one out I will mail you one at no
charge, just report back to me how it works for you. It will reverse every 30
seconds

Take care,
  V


> Thanks for that V

> However, I was looking for something that worked on 6v as per
> godzilla design.

> I am sure bG posted a "simple" circuit diagram for it, but know one
> knows





> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, V <lights@...>
> wrote:

>> Hi Mike,

>> http://www.sharinghealth.com/beckprotocol/buildyourown.html

>> this works for that purpose. you can leave off the zere diodes and
> led if you like. If you replace the C1 part with a 22uf tantalum cap
> then it will switch at 30 seconds . the way the diagram is no it runs
> at 4z.

>> Take care,
>>  V


>> > Can someone point me to a How To on building an Auto Switching
> circuit
>> > for a godzilla type device

>> > Can't see it in the Photos section

>> > Thanks



>> --





--

#833 From: V <lights@...>
Date: Tue May 6, 2008 6:34 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Auto Switching Unit
vzon17
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Hi Mike,

that will work with 6 volts. it can go as low as 3 volts and still work.

Take care,
  V


> Thanks for that V

> However, I was looking for something that worked on 6v as per
> godzilla design.

> I am sure bG posted a "simple" circuit diagram for it, but know one
> knows





> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, V <lights@...>
> wrote:

>> Hi Mike,

>> http://www.sharinghealth.com/beckprotocol/buildyourown.html

>> this works for that purpose. you can leave off the zere diodes and
> led if you like. If you replace the C1 part with a 22uf tantalum cap
> then it will switch at 30 seconds . the way the diagram is no it runs
> at 4z.

>> Take care,
>>  V


>> > Can someone point me to a How To on building an Auto Switching
> circuit
>> > for a godzilla type device

>> > Can't see it in the Photos section

>> > Thanks



>> --





--

#832 From: "Mike" <leachim@...>
Date: Tue May 6, 2008 2:55 pm
Subject: Re: Auto Switching Unit
leachimathome
Offline Offline
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Thanks for that V

However, I was looking for something that worked on 6v as per
godzilla design.

I am sure bG posted a "simple" circuit diagram for it, but know one
knows





--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, V <lights@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> http://www.sharinghealth.com/beckprotocol/buildyourown.html
>
> this works for that purpose. you can leave off the zere diodes and
led if you like. If you replace the C1 part with a 22uf tantalum cap
then it will switch at 30 seconds . the way the diagram is no it runs
at 4z.
>
> Take care,
>  V
>
>
> > Can someone point me to a How To on building an Auto Switching
circuit
> > for a godzilla type device
>
> > Can't see it in the Photos section
>
> > Thanks
>
>
>
> --
>

#830 From: V <lights@...>
Date: Tue May 6, 2008 8:42 am
Subject: Re: Auto Switching Unit
vzon17
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Mike,

http://www.sharinghealth.com/beckprotocol/buildyourown.html

this works for that purpose. you can leave off the zere diodes and led if you
like. If you replace the C1 part with a 22uf tantalum cap then it will switch at
30 seconds . the way the diagram is no it runs at 4z.

Take care,
  V


> Can someone point me to a How To on building an Auto Switching circuit
> for a godzilla type device

> Can't see it in the Photos section

> Thanks



--

#829 From: "Mike" <leachim@...>
Date: Tue May 6, 2008 8:23 am
Subject: Auto Switching Unit
leachimathome
Offline Offline
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Can someone point me to a How To on building an Auto Switching circuit
for a godzilla type device

Can't see it in the Photos section

Thanks

#820 From: "seeker.life" <seeker.life@...>
Date: Fri Mar 21, 2008 7:20 pm
Subject: Re: Lee Crock device
seeker.life
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--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, Brad <haasb@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone here have one or made one? Does it work? Will it
> work with a metal expanded screen instead of copper or
> aluminum mesh screen? I made one yesterday with a 555
> timer to switch a relay on and off every 15 minutes.
> But I couldn't find a copper or aluminum screen but I
> did fine some small expanded metal screens. If anyone has
> any info on this I'd sure like to hear it. Thanks
>
> Brad Haas
>


Hi Brad!

Saw your post on
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/microelectricitygermkiller2

How do you find Lee Crock's device? Does it give you more energy?
Healing perhaps? What have you noticed?

I like to obtain a detailed schematics of LEE CROCK' device,
electronic schematics--polarity changer. With a 555 timer chip with
relay or better yet the new circuitry that Lee Crock now uses, is what
I prefer. If anyone here knows and done a working polarity changer, I
will appreciate it and I am more than willing to share my obtained
files like:

Variety of Radionics  plans (one is very advanced which the author
mentioned to distribute for FREE but www.lifetechnology.org , take
advantage of this radionics plan--they SELL it!!!) and softwares like
Miracle6, telehypnosis pro 20, etc.

Videos like remote viewing, Ed Dames--LearndRV and Remote Viewing the
Lottery, Silva Ultramind ESP, Silva Ultramind Remote Viewing and
Influencing, etc.

Self-help audios and ebook, like Robert Anthony, sexualkey and gut
impact, hypnosis, etc.

If you can give me a detailed schematics like of Lee Crock's device, I
will give you all of the above that I have mentioned and then some.
Please do email me personally seeker.life@...

PS I also have my own electronic schematics version, however I just
want to see and obtain someone's else design for me to compare and
later on come up with a better design.

Thanks!
Seeker

#819 From: "seeker.life" <seeker.life@...>
Date: Fri Mar 21, 2008 7:01 pm
Subject: LEE CROCK detailed schematics WANTED!
seeker.life
Offline Offline
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Hi to all,

I like to obtain a detailed schematics of LEE CROCK' device,
electronic schematics--polarity changer. With a 555 timer chip with
relay or better yet the new circuitry that Lee Crock now uses, is what
I prefer. If anyone here knows and done a working polarity changer, I
will appreciate it and I am more than willing to share my obtained
files like:

Variety of Radionics  plans (one is very advanced which the author
mentioned to distribute for FREE but www.lifetechnology.org , take
advantage of this radionics plan--they SELL it!!!) and softwares like
Miracle6, telehypnosis pro 20, etc.

Videos like remote viewing, Ed Dames--LearndRV and Remote Viewing the
Lottery, Silva Ultramind ESP, Silva Ultramind Remote Viewing and
Influencing, etc.

Self-help audos and ebook, like Robert Anthony, sexualkey and gut
impact, hypnosis, etc.

If you can give me a detailed schematics like of Lee Crock's device, I
will give you all of the above that I have mentioned and then some.
Please do email me personally seeker.life@...

PS I also have my own electronic schematics version, however I just
want to see and obtain someone's else design for me to compare and
later on come up with a better design.

Thanks!
Seeker

#813 From: "Tony Moody" <aim@...>
Date: Sat Mar 1, 2008 2:06 pm
Subject: Re: parallel currents
tonymoody2001
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Hi V,

*  Yes please I'd like your .pdfs.  I met a bloke awhile ago who demo'd to me
while walking
around, where the long lines are. but my ability faded. So I never worked out if
it was his
strong imagination or my lack of attention or what. Are the longitudinal solar
lines the same
sort of grid as long lines? Hadn't put two and two together!!

* I'd also like your schematic if possible. would like to pick that up and demo
to myself.

I do get quite a positive charge from taking off and putting on an acrylic
jersey. Nice sparks in
the dark.  I'd like something to afirm my feelings around this house which has
various types
of carpet. You got anything that sniffs out mold -spores in the building?

Am lucky to live on a mountain so the sky lights up at night quite often.
silent, the whole bowl
of the sky goes flash, flash randomly; very high or faint.

I just tried my dm but don't get any voltage. i do seem to remember doing that
long time ago
and getting some sort of a reading, probably with an avo type meter.


On 29 Feb 2008 at 7:05, V wrote about : Subject : Re:
[microelectricitygermkiller2] p

> Yeah that is interesting. one of many sources of current or static
> fields flowing through or affecting our bodies.
>
> What about the voltage gradient we all have between the ground and our
> heads of around 600 volts varying to as high as 1000 volts during
> storms. that in something we are constantly in also and grounding our
> bodies changes the way that voltage gradient relates to our body.
>
> I have done experiments with increasing this voltage gradient a few
> times but have no objective results to report. I used to have a
> voltage gradient on my bed from head to toe of about 900 volts coming
> from 100 9 volt batteries connected in series. THat was years ago.
>
> then I also experimented with a voltage gradient of a few thousand
> volts over my chair. by putting a stainless steel bowl on the ceiling
> and charging it up with a high voltage circuit.
>
> then there is the longitudinal waves that permeate everywhere that are
> in a grid fashion that is powered by the solar field as it comes to
> earth. standing waves of free electrons that can be measured with the
> right instrument.
>
> the electrons do flow into or out of our bodies when we ground
> ourselves. I built a super sensitive device that can detect that
> easily. I dose fit in science if you look to the right field of
> science. it fits more in the static electrical knowledge base instead
> of the current electricity theories.
>
> I have some interesting PDF files about the longitudinal waves if you
> are interested.
>
> V
>
<snip >

#812 From: Don Hildreth <w6nrw2@...>
Date: Fri Feb 29, 2008 11:55 pm
Subject: Re: parallel currents
w6nrw2
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Re the nominal 600 volt gradient, I infer that
it is a very high impedance source.  Do you have an
idea as to how that 600 volt number is evaluated?

When making my measurements relative to the 60 Hz
electric field I have taken all of the precautions
that I can think of.  My ground lead is faraday
screened.
I have enough sensitivity so that I am bumping into
the kTB thermal limit.  Yet when I kill the electric
field by throwing the main breaker, I can see no other
evidence of a current.  True, static electricity is a
wild card, but that is usually friction generated and
thus recognized and can be suppressed.

Of course I favor BG's godzilla.  What we are doing
there is very real and can be easily measured.
However, his
latest effort at using a lower level over a longer
period
made me think of the 60 Hz electric field which is at
a lower level over a longer period.  But it is at 60
Hz
rather than DC. And it is present along with godzilla.

On the other waveforms, my knowledge is limited to the
conventional electro-magnetic fields as can be
detected
by antennas and generated and/or amplified by our
standard stuff and seen by oscilloscopes or spectrum
analysers etc.  In short, routine stuff.

Thanks V for your interest . . . and I'll sure keep
you
in mind if I want any special LED stuff.




_________________________________________________________
> > Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
> > http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>



      
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____
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. 
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#811 From: V <lights@...>
Date: Fri Feb 29, 2008 3:05 pm
Subject: Re: parallel currents
vzon17
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Yeah that is interesting. one of many sources of current or static fields
flowing through or affecting our bodies.

What about the voltage gradient we all have between the ground and our heads of
around 600 volts varying to as high as 1000 volts during storms. that in
something we are constantly in also and grounding our bodies changes the way
that voltage gradient relates to our body.

I have done experiments with increasing this voltage gradient a few times but
have no objective results to report. I used to have a voltage gradient on my bed
from head to toe of about 900 volts coming from 100 9 volt batteries connected
in series. THat was years ago.

then I also experimented with a voltage gradient of a few thousand volts over my
chair. by putting a stainless steel bowl on the ceiling and charging it up with
a high voltage circuit.

then there is the longitudinal waves that permeate everywhere that are in a grid
fashion that is powered by the solar field as it comes to earth. standing waves
of free electrons that can be measured with the  right instrument.

the electrons do flow into or out of our bodies when we ground ourselves. I
built a super sensitive device that can detect that easily. I dose fit in
science if you look to the right field of science. it fits more in the static
electrical knowledge base instead of the current electricity theories.

I have some interesting PDF files about the longitudinal waves if you are
interested.

V


> I want to throw something out for conversation
> if anyone else finds the following stuff
> interesting, as I do.

> Opinions please:

> Because of our electrical power system here in
> the U.S. and at many other locations on earth
> we are confronted with a 60 Hz electric field
> 24/7.  I'm not talking about the 60 Hz magnetic
> field that we have all been warned about. The
> magnetic field is only present when current is
> flowing.  This electric field is generally
> considered to be harmless, but consider the
> following:

> Since a human body has a freespace capacitance
> of a nominal 100 picofarads, this 60 Hz
> electric field couples energy to us resulting
> in a measurable body voltage of from 1 to 4
> volts or so relative to ground when we are in
> a typical residence or any structure that
> includes electrical power outlets and wiring.

> I infer that a resulting 60 Hz sine current
> in the neighborhood of a fraction of a nano-
> ampere is constantly flowing through us.  That
> is a very small current, but at my location I
> can increase that current to around 100 nano-
> amperes by connecting myself electrically to
> ground.  Even 100 nanoamperes is a very small
> current (1000 nanoramperes = 1 microampere),
> but it is 24/7 . . . and that could make quite
> a difference.

> Using basic Ohms law, I infer that the current
> that flows when we are not intentionally
> grounded would be strongly influenced by
> the humidity, thus someone in a dry area like
> Tucson, AZ would measure a higher voltage
> than I do in my area of a much higher humidity.
> (High humidity--lower impedance to ground)

> There are those who believe that they can
> get rid of this electric field effect by
> grounding themselves. They further suggest
> that electrons will run up the ground wire
> from earth to benefit the 'grounded' person.
> Their belief does not fit known science too
> well in terms of electron behavior. However,
> I have no idea as to the benefit or
> otherwise of the current that will result
> as caused by the 60 Hz electric field.




>
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
> Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

#810 From: Don Hildreth <w6nrw2@...>
Date: Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:19 pm
Subject: parallel currents
w6nrw2
Offline Offline
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I want to throw something out for conversation
if anyone else finds the following stuff
interesting, as I do.

Opinions please:

Because of our electrical power system here in
the U.S. and at many other locations on earth
we are confronted with a 60 Hz electric field
24/7.  I'm not talking about the 60 Hz magnetic
field that we have all been warned about. The
magnetic field is only present when current is
flowing.  This electric field is generally
considered to be harmless, but consider the
following:

Since a human body has a freespace capacitance
of a nominal 100 picofarads, this 60 Hz
electric field couples energy to us resulting
in a measurable body voltage of from 1 to 4
volts or so relative to ground when we are in
a typical residence or any structure that
includes electrical power outlets and wiring.

I infer that a resulting 60 Hz sine current
in the neighborhood of a fraction of a nano-
ampere is constantly flowing through us.  That
is a very small current, but at my location I
can increase that current to around 100 nano-
amperes by connecting myself electrically to
ground.  Even 100 nanoamperes is a very small
current (1000 nanoramperes = 1 microampere),
but it is 24/7 . . . and that could make quite
a difference.

Using basic Ohms law, I infer that the current
that flows when we are not intentionally
grounded would be strongly influenced by
the humidity, thus someone in a dry area like
Tucson, AZ would measure a higher voltage
than I do in my area of a much higher humidity.
(High humidity--lower impedance to ground)

There are those who believe that they can
get rid of this electric field effect by
grounding themselves. They further suggest
that electrons will run up the ground wire
from earth to benefit the 'grounded' person.
Their belief does not fit known science too
well in terms of electron behavior. However,
I have no idea as to the benefit or
otherwise of the current that will result
as caused by the 60 Hz electric field.




      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

#809 From: "Lucky Jimenez" <writelucky@...>
Date: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:53 pm
Subject: Godzilla with meter
writelucky
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Hi!  Can anyone tell me the site where I can find directions for
making a godzilla with meter?  I've been looking around this site and
can only find a photo of one.

Thanks!

Lucky

#797 From: "Jack" <jack.mill@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2008 4:16 pm
Subject: Re: my own current usage of electricity
jackmill
Offline Offline
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--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>BG, for the prostate are you just doing wrist blood elec or do you
apply zilla to the feet or upper legs?

Jackmill
> I used blood electrification for years and it never fixed any colds
for
> me.  using the paddles (6 volts dc, two stainless forks, sponges)
for 5
> minutes once then repeat 2-3 hours later a few times the first day,
and
> part of the next REALLY knocked it out for me a few times, so
that's my
> secret.
>
> i still do the blood every month for an hour or so with dc on the
> wrist.  why?  pee pee fixee.  yup, at 61 you gotta have a solution
> usually and somehow this is it for me as well as a couple others
who
> reported the same result.  Not needed much but if not done once
every
> month or two, the prostate becomes testy and pee is much a problem.
>
> bG
>

#796 From: "baby_grand" <bobluhrs@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2008 6:50 am
Subject: Re: my own current usage of electricity
baby_grand
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paddles used on the face around the cold germ area, sinuses, under
chin, etc.  very short applicaton time, great results.
--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>
> I used blood electrification for years and it never fixed any colds
for
> me.  using the paddles (6 volts dc, two stainless forks, sponges) for
5

#795 From: "baby_grand" <bobluhrs@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2008 6:48 am
Subject: my own current usage of electricity
baby_grand
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I used blood electrification for years and it never fixed any colds for
me.  using the paddles (6 volts dc, two stainless forks, sponges) for 5
minutes once then repeat 2-3 hours later a few times the first day, and
part of the next REALLY knocked it out for me a few times, so that's my
secret.

i still do the blood every month for an hour or so with dc on the
wrist.  why?  pee pee fixee.  yup, at 61 you gotta have a solution
usually and somehow this is it for me as well as a couple others who
reported the same result.  Not needed much but if not done once every
month or two, the prostate becomes testy and pee is much a problem.

bG

#794 From: "baby_grand" <bobluhrs@...>
Date: Wed Jan 9, 2008 6:44 am
Subject: spam
baby_grand
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this site is mainly for you folks who already know to exchange ideas.

so the spam, though ugly, is not going to hit too many newbies.  the
regular group microelectricitygermkiller is kept very clean and newbies
should go there for a really good site.  people who want to explore
this as a caregiving method should go there, for instance.

this one is for techies and experimenters.  I still like to keep on-
topic, but i won't be in every day or even every week to clean house
here.  It should not affect the info you get, so ... don't worry about
it.  If someone hates spam, start another group, copy our info and
regulate it yourself, it's work and work sucks.

bG

#783 From: Steffan Heydon <steffan@...>
Date: Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:05 am
Subject: Re: Blood Electrifier Problem???
twotower61
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Thanks Chuck for the recommendation. I took it! 

I purchased a second 3 1/4 X 2 1/8 inch breadboard and cut it in half with a hack saw.  I unsoldered and removed the components from the printed circuit boards and transferred them to the breadboards. I now have four functioning blood electrifier circuits. I'm not sure why the little IC circuit boards were not working??? I didn't have a hot-melt glue gun, but I did have a tube of clear silicon sealer and that seemed to work quite well to encapsulate the components on the board.

I have been zapping my blood for three days now and my unit is functioning flawlessly.

Take Care,
Steffan


On Nov 17, 2007, at 9:29 AM, cking001@... wrote:

It seems your board is bad.

The small Vector boards used for breadboarding are neat.
You could set up your circuit, check it, then encapsulate it with hot
glue sticks as a possible solution.

Chuck
I've started taking La maze classes
... I'm not having a baby; just having trouble breathing.

On 11/17/2007 2:26:35 AM, Steffan Heydon (steffan@twotowers.com)
wrote:
> Hi Jack,
>
> I have double checked and quadruple checked. I can get the circuits to
> work fine on a bread board. As soon as I transfer them, one component at a
> time, to the circuit board the circuit no longer functions properly.
> Tonight must have been my eighth attempt. You would think I would get it
> right just by chance. I know the circuit so well I can almost do it
> without looking at the schematic. My only guess is that there seems to be
> some kind of voltage issue with the components soldered onto the board. I
> actually removed all of the components one by one, off of a circuit
> board and transferred them back to the bread board. Everything again
> worked just like it should. 
>
>
> I Also checked for shorts in my soldering. Everything OK there too.
>



#781 From: "Jack Milliorn" <jack.mill@...>
Date: Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:51 pm
Subject: Re: Blood Electrifier Problem???
jackmill
Offline Offline
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Wow that's pretty  much what I would have done.  Using a magnifying glass did you look for a hairline crack in the pc board?  No chance there is a solder bridge somewhere?  I'm sure you checked that.  I'm grabbing at straws here Steffan.  What are you using for a pc board?
 
Jack
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Blood Electrifier Problem???

Hi Jack,


I have double checked and quadruple checked. I can get the circuits to work fine on a bread board. As soon as I transfer them, one component at a time, to the circuit board the circuit no longer functions properly. Tonight must have been my eighth attempt. You would think I would get it right just by chance. I know the circuit so well I can almost do it without looking at the schematic. My only guess is that there seems to be some kind of voltage issue with the components soldered onto the board. I actually removed all of the components one by one, off of a circuit board and transferred them back to the bread board. Everything again worked just like it should. 

I Also checked for shorts in my soldering. Everything OK there too.

Go Figure????

On Nov 15, 2007, at 11:55 AM, Jack Milliorn wrote:


Check you solder connections closely sometimes a solder connection will become intermittent.  Are you using a circuit board?
 
Jack
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 11:19 PM
Subject: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Blood Electrifier Problem???

Blood Electrifier Problem:

My LM358 IC chips arrived in the mail and I was finally able to complete my blood electrifier.
My construction followed Beck's solid state schematic without alterations. It seemed to work
fine initially, how ever an hour into the first treatment the LED quite fluctuating between red
and green and seemed to stay solid red.

What seems to be happening is that the polarity is changing so fast that the eye can't see the
change and the LED appears to be solid red. However If I wave the LED back and forth in front
of my eyes, both a green and a red light can be seen.

It would appear that somehow the timing has gone screwy. I'm wondering if maybe the
ceramic capacitor is faulty. I tried using another IC chip and that did not make a difference.

The batteries are new.

Ideas Anyone?

Thanks




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.34/1134 - Release Date: 11/16/2007 9:52 AM

#780 From: cking001@...
Date: Sat Nov 17, 2007 5:29 pm
Subject: Re: Blood Electrifier Problem???
kingca12303
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
It seems your board is bad.

The small Vector boards used for breadboarding are neat.
You could set up your circuit, check it, then encapsulate it with hot
glue sticks as a possible solution.

						 Chuck
I've started taking La maze classes
... I'm not having a baby; just having trouble breathing.


On 11/17/2007 2:26:35 AM, Steffan Heydon (steffan@...)
wrote:
> Hi Jack,
>
> I have double checked and quadruple checked. I can get the circuits to
> work fine on a bread board. As soon as I transfer them, one component at a
> time, to the circuit board the circuit no longer functions properly.
> Tonight must have been my eighth attempt. You would think I would get it
> right just by chance. I know the circuit so well I can almost do it
> without looking at the schematic. My only guess is that there seems to be
> some kind of voltage issue with the components soldered onto the board. I
> actually removed all of the components one by one, off of a circuit
> board and transferred them back to the bread board. Everything again
> worked just like it should. 
>
>
> I Also checked for shorts in my soldering. Everything OK there too.
>

#779 From: Steffan Heydon <steffan@...>
Date: Sat Nov 17, 2007 7:26 am
Subject: Re: Blood Electrifier Problem???
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Jack,

I have double checked and quadruple checked. I can get the circuits to work fine on a bread board. As soon as I transfer them, one component at a time, to the circuit board the circuit no longer functions properly. Tonight must have been my eighth attempt. You would think I would get it right just by chance. I know the circuit so well I can almost do it without looking at the schematic. My only guess is that there seems to be some kind of voltage issue with the components soldered onto the board. I actually removed all of the components one by one, off of a circuit board and transferred them back to the bread board. Everything again worked just like it should. 

I Also checked for shorts in my soldering. Everything OK there too.

Go Figure????

On Nov 15, 2007, at 11:55 AM, Jack Milliorn wrote:


Check you solder connections closely sometimes a solder connection will become intermittent.  Are you using a circuit board?
 
Jack
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 11:19 PM
Subject: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Blood Electrifier Problem???

Blood Electrifier Problem:

My LM358 IC chips arrived in the mail and I was finally able to complete my blood electrifier.
My construction followed Beck's solid state schematic without alterations. It seemed to work
fine initially, how ever an hour into the first treatment the LED quite fluctuating between red
and green and seemed to stay solid red.

What seems to be happening is that the polarity is changing so fast that the eye can't see the
change and the LED appears to be solid red. However If I wave the LED back and forth in front
of my eyes, both a green and a red light can be seen.

It would appear that somehow the timing has gone screwy. I'm wondering if maybe the
ceramic capacitor is faulty. I tried using another IC chip and that did not make a difference.

The batteries are new.

Ideas Anyone?

Thanks




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Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.33/1132 - Release Date: 11/15/2007 9:34 AM



#778 From: "Jack Milliorn" <jack.mill@...>
Date: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:55 pm
Subject: Re: Blood Electrifier Problem???
jackmill
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Check you solder connections closely sometimes a solder connection will become intermittent.  Are you using a circuit board?
 
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: twotower61
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 11:19 PM
Subject: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Blood Electrifier Problem???

Blood Electrifier Problem:

My LM358 IC chips arrived in the mail and I was finally able to complete my blood electrifier.
My construction followed Beck's solid state schematic without alterations. It seemed to work
fine initially, how ever an hour into the first treatment the LED quite fluctuating between red
and green and seemed to stay solid red.

What seems to be happening is that the polarity is changing so fast that the eye can't see the
change and the LED appears to be solid red. However If I wave the LED back and forth in front
of my eyes, both a green and a red light can be seen.

It would appear that somehow the timing has gone screwy. I'm wondering if maybe the
ceramic capacitor is faulty. I tried using another IC chip and that did not make a difference.

The batteries are new.

Ideas Anyone?

Thanks


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.33/1132 - Release Date: 11/15/2007 9:34 AM

#777 From: "twotower61" <steffan@...>
Date: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:19 am
Subject: Blood Electrifier Problem???
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Blood Electrifier Problem:

My LM358 IC chips arrived in the mail and I was finally able to complete my
blood electrifier.
My construction followed Beck's solid state schematic without alterations. It
seemed to work
fine initially, how ever an hour into the first treatment the LED quite
fluctuating between red
and green and seemed to stay solid red.

What seems to be happening is that the polarity is changing so fast that the eye
can't see the
change and the LED appears to be solid red. However If I wave the LED back and
forth in front
of my eyes, both a green and a red light can be seen.

It would appear that somehow the timing has gone screwy. I'm wondering if maybe
the
ceramic capacitor is faulty. I tried using another IC chip and that did not make
a difference.

The batteries are new.

Ideas Anyone?

Thanks

#773 From: Steffan Heydon <steffan@...>
Date: Fri Nov 9, 2007 2:42 am
Subject: Re: Re: beck device
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Tony,

When you get a chance to look at the voltage amplifier circuit, perhaps you might have an idea as to what type and rating of capacitors to use. The associated text does provide a part number for the diodes.

http://www.geofex.com/circuits/+9_to_33.htm

On the GermKiller2 yahoo group, there are some circuit diagrams. I thought those were yours. Sorry for the confusion. One diagram eliminated the LED portion of the blood electrifier circuit.

Thanks for your time and I'm not wanting to be a pest. But... :  )   I'm still a little foggy the frequency modulation process.

1.) Is the location to make this alteration off of Pin 2?
2.) Is what changes the frequency from 4 Hz to 1/60 Hz, the addition of the 2.4 M Ohm resistor between Pin 2 and the 0.1 uF cap?
3.) Am I understanding you correctly that I may need to try different resistors to get the desired frequency?

Thanks Again,
Steffan

On Nov 8, 2007, at 10:02 AM, Tony Moody wrote:

On 7 Nov 2007 at 11:03, Steffan Heydon wrote about :
Subject : Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] R

>
> Hi Tony,
> The URL for the 9V batteryvoltageamplifier 9 + 18, +25, +33V is below.
> I just realized the link I provided did not take you to the actual
> page.
>
> http://www.geofex.com/circuits/+9_to_33.htm

Yes an interesting site And didn't find that but figured out the gremlin; will do next time i'm on
line. Thanks.

>
> Rather than switching the output jack, I think I will just use a small
> push-to-make switch in order to manually switch the LED test circuit.

Yes, a good move. leds use a lot of power in that circuit. Anyting to make it micropower
would be good.

> I take it the zener diodes are just to run the LED as the zener
> diodes, the LED and the 22 uF cap were removed from your modified
> circuit?

Huh? My modified circuit? My own circuits are in pencil in a little book here and right now I
can't find the book.

Hmm, its a while since I designed on this. think you needed higher value Z's for the higher
supply voltage, so you probably right. Take care not to exceed the opamp specs or they will
fade on you.

>
> So you are saying to add a 2.4 mega ohm resister between pin 2 and the
> 0.1 uF cap? This will change the frequency 1/60 hertz or every 30 sec?
> You have found this to be more effective than the 8 hertz setting?

No, i didn't say that. . The published circuit that i worked from had those values and that goes
at nominal 4Hz. You will have to try altering those values to get what you want. I personally
had the feeling that the older design of about 1Hz was more effective but have no way of
being categoric about that. Also I battled to get the signal to be symmetrical at slow speed.

Have fun,
Tony

>
>
>
>
> Blessings,
>
> Steffan
>
>
>
> On Nov 7, 2007, at 10:23 AM, Tony Moody wrote:
>
>
>



#772 From: "Tony Moody" <aim@...>
Date: Thu Nov 8, 2007 6:02 pm
Subject: Re: Re: beck device
tonymoody2001
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
On 7 Nov 2007 at 11:03, Steffan Heydon wrote about :
Subject : Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] R

>
> Hi Tony,
> The URL for the 9V batteryvoltageamplifier 9 + 18, +25, +33V is below.
> I just realized the link I provided did not take you to the actual
> page.
>
> http://www.geofex.com/circuits/+9_to_33.htm

Yes an interesting site And didn't find that but figured out the gremlin; will
do next time i'm on
line. Thanks.

>
> Rather than switching the output jack, I think I will just use a small
> push-to-make switch in order to manually switch the LED test circuit.

Yes, a good move. leds use a lot of power in that circuit. Anyting to make it
micropower
would be good.

> I take it the zener diodes are just to run the LED as the zener
> diodes, the LED and the 22 uF cap were removed from your modified
> circuit?

Huh? My modified circuit?  My own circuits are in pencil in a little book here
and right now I
can't find the book.

Hmm, its a while since I designed on this. think you needed higher value Z's for
the higher
supply voltage, so you probably right. Take care not to exceed the opamp specs
or they will
fade on you.

>
> So you are saying to add a 2.4 mega ohm resister between pin 2 and the
> 0.1 uF cap? This will change the frequency 1/60 hertz or every 30 sec?
> You have found this to be more effective than the 8 hertz setting?

No, i didn't say that. . The published circuit that i worked from had those
values and that goes
at nominal 4Hz. You will have to try altering those values to get what you want.
I personally
had the feeling that the older design of about 1Hz was more effective but have
no way of
being categoric about that. Also I battled to get the signal to be symmetrical
at slow speed.

Have fun,
Tony



>
>
>
>
> Blessings,
>
> Steffan
>
>
>
> On Nov 7, 2007, at 10:23 AM, Tony Moody wrote:
>
>
>

#770 From: Steffan Heydon <steffan@...>
Date: Wed Nov 7, 2007 7:03 pm
Subject: Re: Re: beck device
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Tony,

The URL for the 9V battery voltage amplifier 9 + 18, +25, +33V is below. I just realized the link I provided did not take you to the actual page.


Rather than switching the output jack, I think I will just use a small push-to-make switch in order to manually switch the LED test circuit. I take it the zener diodes are just to run the LED as the zener diodes, the LED and the 22 uF cap were removed from your modified circuit?

So you are saying to add a 2.4 mega ohm resister between pin 2 and the 0.1 uF cap? This will change the frequency 1/60 hertz or every 30 sec? You have found this to be more effective than the 8 hertz setting?



Blessings,

Steffan



On Nov 7, 2007, at 10:23 AM, Tony Moody wrote:

Hi Steffan / twotower61

Changing the frequency is adjustable within practical limits by altering either the cap or the
resistor in the CR circuit which give you the "long" time period to changeover. In diagram
here it is 0.1uF and 2.4 Meg Ohm connected to pin 2 of op amp U1B.

Yes you will need three terminals on the socket ; one terminal (Normally Closed) to be
switched Open when inserting the plug.

Thanks for the site for voltage increaser. will look at it later. But ... Bob Beck stopped using
the higher voltage. he changed from 4x9 to 3x9 batts and settled for that. there is probably a
good reason for that. think skin burns :-).

OK, Tony

On 6 Nov 2007 at 18:50, twotower61 wrote about :
Subject : [microelectricitygermkiller2] Re: b

> Hi Baby_Grand -
>
> Could you please elaborate on how to change the frequency in the blood
> electrifier. I notice that some commercial models have different
> frequency settings. Perhaps one needs to use a different IC chip?
>
> If the bicolor LED is to be used to test the device, how does one turn
> it off during normal operation? Perhaps the phone jack that I got from
> the electronics supply which only has two solder points is the
> incorrect one? That part of the schematic (numbers 2 and 3 on the
> electrifier output jack) have me mystified!
>
> You mention using a fourth battery. Does this change the output to -36
> and +36 volts, or does the output voltage stay the same? Is the output
> voltage in the circuit regulated by the zener diodes or do they simply
> allow the LED to pulse red/green as the polarity changes? The circuit
> diagram shows the zener diodes opposed to each other.
>
> I plan to build a voltage amplifier that will amplify the voltage from
> a single 9V battery to 34V and add it to the front of the blood
> electrifier circuit. http://www.geofex.com/ circuits/+9_to_33.htm -
> I'm guessing since it is OK to add a fourth battery to the power
> supply, that running the blood electrifier on 34V will work
> satisfactorily.
>
> Thanks Much!
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
> <bobluhrs@...> wrote: > > you should be able to feel the current
> pulsating (it's one of the > problems). the LED is to be used to
> test, not to run with, or it eats > a lot of current. If you have 3
> batteries, add a fourth one. I like > to put a .1mfd non-polar or
> ceramic capacitor across the output leads > to dampen the spike, but
> that is not "pure Beck" so you may not want > it. I like the Beck
> devices but set them to 1/60 hertz or one change > of current every 30
> seconds, that works best for me. > > :) > bG > > --- In
> microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maujm07" > <maujm07@>
> wrote: > > > > Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want
> to ask if you > > could help about my beck device which was built by
> my brother last > > month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not
> flash from green to > > red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it
> should flash alternately > > which indicates a reverse polarity. My
> brother already check the > > device with a tester and said its output
> is an AC current. I ask > > Carole from Sharing Health and told me
> that the led bi-colour that I > > bought could be different. She also
> told me that I can use the device > > coz the current is already AC.
> Please give me some advice. Thanks in > > advance. > > > > Mau > >
> From the Philippines > > >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>



#769 From: "Tony Moody" <aim@...>
Date: Wed Nov 7, 2007 6:23 pm
Subject: Re: Re: beck device
tonymoody2001
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Steffan /  twotower61

Changing the frequency is adjustable within practical limits by altering either
the cap or the
resistor in the CR circuit which give you the "long" time period to changeover. 
In diagram
here it is 0.1uF and 2.4 Meg Ohm connected to pin 2 of op amp U1B.

Yes you will need three terminals on the socket ; one terminal (Normally Closed)
to be
switched Open when inserting the plug.

Thanks for the site for voltage increaser. will look at it later. But ... Bob
Beck stopped using
the higher voltage. he changed from 4x9 to 3x9 batts and settled for that. there
is probably a
good reason for that. think skin burns :-).

OK, Tony

On 6 Nov 2007 at 18:50, twotower61 wrote about :
Subject : [microelectricitygermkiller2] Re: b

> Hi Baby_Grand -
>
> Could you please elaborate on how to change the frequency in the blood
> electrifier. I notice that some commercial models have different
> frequency settings. Perhaps one needs to use a different IC chip?
>
> If the bicolor LED is to be used to test the device, how does one turn
> it off during normal operation? Perhaps the phone jack that I got from
> the electronics supply which only has two solder points is the
> incorrect one? That part of the schematic (numbers 2 and 3 on the
> electrifier output jack) have me mystified!
>
> You mention using a fourth battery. Does this change the output to -36
> and +36 volts, or does the output voltage stay the same? Is the output
> voltage in the circuit regulated by the zener diodes or do they simply
> allow the LED to pulse red/green as the polarity changes? The circuit
> diagram shows the zener diodes opposed to each other.
>
> I plan to build a voltage amplifier that will amplify the voltage from
> a single 9V battery to 34V and add it to the front of the blood
> electrifier circuit. http://www.geofex.com/ circuits/+9_to_33.htm -
> I'm guessing since it is OK to add a fourth battery to the power
> supply, that running the blood electrifier on 34V will work
> satisfactorily.
>
> Thanks Much!
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
> <bobluhrs@...> wrote: > > you should be able to feel the current
> pulsating (it's one of the > problems).  the LED is to be used to
> test, not to run with, or it eats > a lot of current.  If you have 3
> batteries, add a fourth one.  I like > to put a .1mfd non-polar or
> ceramic capacitor across the output leads > to dampen the spike, but
> that is not "pure Beck" so you may not want > it.  I like the Beck
> devices but set them to 1/60 hertz or one change > of current every 30
> seconds, that works best for me. > > :) > bG > > --- In
> microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maujm07" > <maujm07@>
> wrote: > > > > Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want
> to ask if you > > could help about my beck device which was built by
> my brother last > > month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not
> flash from green to > > red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it
> should flash alternately > > which indicates a reverse polarity. My
> brother already check the > > device with a tester and said its output
> is an AC current. I ask > > Carole from Sharing Health and told me
> that the led bi-colour that I > > bought could be different. She also
> told me that I can use the device > > coz the current is already AC.
> Please give me some advice. Thanks in > > advance. > > > > Mau > >
> From the Philippines > > >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

#767 From: "twotower61" <steffan@...>
Date: Tue Nov 6, 2007 6:50 pm
Subject: Re: beck device
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Baby_Grand -

Could you please elaborate on how to change the frequency in the blood
electrifier. I
notice that some commercial models have different frequency settings. Perhaps
one needs
to use a different IC chip?

If the bicolor LED is to be used to test the device, how does one turn it off
during normal
operation? Perhaps the phone jack that I got from the electronics supply which
only has
two solder points is the incorrect one? That part of the schematic (numbers 2
and 3 on the
electrifier output jack) have me mystified!

You mention using a fourth battery. Does this change the output to -36 and +36
volts, or
does the output voltage stay the same? Is the output voltage in the circuit
regulated by the
zener diodes or do they simply allow the LED to pulse red/green as the polarity
changes?
The circuit diagram shows the zener diodes opposed to each other.

I plan to build a voltage amplifier that will amplify the voltage from a single
9V battery to
34V and add it to the front of the blood electrifier circuit.
http://www.geofex.com/
circuits/+9_to_33.htm - I'm guessing since it is OK to add a fourth battery to
the power
supply, that running the blood electrifier on 34V will work satisfactorily.

Thanks Much!

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand" <bobluhrs@...>
wrote:
>
> you should be able to feel the current pulsating (it's one of the
> problems).  the LED is to be used to test, not to run with, or it eats
> a lot of current.  If you have 3 batteries, add a fourth one.  I like
> to put a .1mfd non-polar or ceramic capacitor across the output leads
> to dampen the spike, but that is not "pure Beck" so you may not want
> it.  I like the Beck devices but set them to 1/60 hertz or one change
> of current every 30 seconds, that works best for me.
>
> :)
> bG
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maujm07"
> <maujm07@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want to ask if you
> > could help about my beck device which was built by my brother last
> > month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not flash from green to
> > red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it should flash alternately
> > which indicates a reverse polarity. My brother already check the
> > device with a tester and said its output is an AC current. I ask
> > Carole from Sharing Health and told me that the led bi-colour that I
> > bought could be different. She also told me that I can use the device
> > coz the current is already AC. Please give me some advice. Thanks in
> > advance.
> >
> > Mau
> > From the Philippines
> >
>

#766 From: "twotower61" <steffan@...>
Date: Tue Nov 6, 2007 5:22 pm
Subject: Re: what to use for electrodes?
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Were you successful in bulding your blood electrifier?

#765 From: "twotower61" <steffan@...>
Date: Tue Nov 6, 2007 5:22 pm
Subject: Re: what to use for electrodes?
twotower61
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
From what I've been able to dig up in my research, stainless steal is preferable
for use as
blood electrifier electrodes over 99.99 fine silver. Never use sterling or 99.9
silver. Silver will
become heavily oxidized and produce silver chloride in the electrolysis process.
Currently all I
have is 99.99 silver and I plan to switch to Stainless steel.

Even better, take your stainless steal electrodes to any well equipped jeweler
and for a few
bucks they can gold plate your electrodes for you. Gold plated electrodes are
optimal.

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