I am building BG's Beck-type device, and the pictures don't show what
the electrodes are made of. Just the bare copper wire wrapped with
thread / cotton? Silver? Stainless steel? What should I use, and does
it matter?

Thanx!

----- Original Message -----

From: martin7730

To: microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:25 AM

Subject: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Re: I have had metal allergy to jewelery for 30 years.

Hi BG,

What is your opinion on using chrome plated tubes, like what you would
find for plumbing? I haven't measured one yet for conductivity.

John

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>
> skin problems mean lower the power level. use a 4.5 volt battery
> holder or even less, or introduce some resistance, like a 100k linear
> potentiometer to reduce the current flow by adjusting it to your skin.
>
> Lyme's is hard since it can go anywhere. To me, and not a doc, seems
> the best course is antibiotics and electrify the head area, spine
> area, intestinal area where drugs do not usually go. No idea if it
> will work though.
>
> bG
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "marandron"
> <mlehanson@> wrote:
> >
> > I can tolerate fine gold and fine silver. I have used the paddles
> and
> > gutzilla on my wrists for the blood purificatin. Now in the last
> few
> > days I notice my skin texture on wrists have gotten a little harder
> and
> > there are some dry rash bumps under the skin. I am also finding
> many
> > bumps skattered on other parts of my body. I am treating for mold,
> > Mycoplasma, Chlymedia Pneumonia, Lymes, Asthma,and Multiple
> Sclerosis
> > and enlarged lymph glands under arms. I am placing the 4X8" sponge
> > gutzilla pads under arms and on chest with current flowing over
> armpit
> > glands, front to back over bladder, front to back over lungs, front
> to
> > back over bowels, across from one breast to the other breast, from
> knee
> > to waist and across face from cheek to cheek and from jaw to jaw. I
> am
> > hoping to aleviate all pathogens from my body. I feel there may be
> > some infections in my brain but fear going across it as I feel some
> > woozyness from cheek to cheek and Jaw to Jaw. Any comments are
> welcome
> > regarding the wrists hardness and rash on wrists. Also would like
> to
> > know if I am placing the pads correctly to benefit the problems I
> have
> > described. Also using the 6 volt is there a way to cross the brain
> with
> > out doing damage? Thank you so much I am noticing things which I
> > believe are healthy changes. If anyone has comments on the bumps or
> > rash I would appreciate them.
> >
>

---

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/873 - Release Date: 6/26/2007 11:54 PM

Hi BG,

What is your opinion on using chrome plated tubes, like what you would
find for plumbing? I haven't measured one yet for conductivity.

John

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>
> skin problems mean lower the power level.  use a 4.5 volt battery
> holder or even less, or introduce some resistance, like a 100k linear
> potentiometer to reduce the current flow by adjusting it to your skin.
>
> Lyme's is hard since it can go anywhere.  To me, and not a doc, seems
> the best course is antibiotics and electrify the head area, spine
> area, intestinal area where drugs do not usually go.  No idea if it
> will work though.
>
> bG
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "marandron"
> <mlehanson@> wrote:
> >
> > I can tolerate fine gold and fine silver. I have used the paddles
> and
> > gutzilla on my wrists for the blood purificatin. Now in the last
> few
> > days I notice my skin texture on wrists have gotten a little harder
> and
> > there are some dry rash bumps under the skin. I am also finding
> many
> > bumps skattered on other parts of my body.  I am treating for mold,
> > Mycoplasma, Chlymedia Pneumonia, Lymes, Asthma,and Multiple
> Sclerosis
> > and enlarged lymph glands under arms.  I am placing the 4X8" sponge
> > gutzilla pads under arms and on chest with current flowing over
> armpit
> > glands, front to back over bladder, front to back over lungs, front
> to
> > back over bowels, across from one breast to the other breast, from
> knee
> > to waist and across face from cheek to cheek and from jaw to jaw. I
> am
> > hoping to aleviate all pathogens from my body.  I feel there may be
> > some infections in my brain but fear going across it as I feel some
> > woozyness from cheek to cheek and Jaw to Jaw. Any comments are
> welcome
> > regarding the wrists hardness and rash on wrists. Also would like
> to
> > know if I am placing the pads correctly to benefit the problems I
> have
> > described. Also using the 6 volt is there a way to cross the brain
> with
> > out doing damage? Thank you so much I am noticing things which I
> > believe are healthy changes. If anyone has comments on the bumps or
> > rash I would appreciate them.
> >
>

skin problems mean lower the power level.  use a 4.5 volt battery
holder or even less, or introduce some resistance, like a 100k linear
potentiometer to reduce the current flow by adjusting it to your skin.

Lyme's is hard since it can go anywhere.  To me, and not a doc, seems
the best course is antibiotics and electrify the head area, spine
area, intestinal area where drugs do not usually go.  No idea if it
will work though.

bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "marandron"
<mlehanson@...> wrote:
>
> I can tolerate fine gold and fine silver. I have used the paddles
and
> gutzilla on my wrists for the blood purificatin. Now in the last
few
> days I notice my skin texture on wrists have gotten a little harder
and
> there are some dry rash bumps under the skin. I am also finding
many
> bumps skattered on other parts of my body.  I am treating for mold,
> Mycoplasma, Chlymedia Pneumonia, Lymes, Asthma,and Multiple
Sclerosis
> and enlarged lymph glands under arms.  I am placing the 4X8" sponge
> gutzilla pads under arms and on chest with current flowing over
armpit
> glands, front to back over bladder, front to back over lungs, front
to
> back over bowels, across from one breast to the other breast, from
knee
> to waist and across face from cheek to cheek and from jaw to jaw. I
am
> hoping to aleviate all pathogens from my body.  I feel there may be
> some infections in my brain but fear going across it as I feel some
> woozyness from cheek to cheek and Jaw to Jaw. Any comments are
welcome
> regarding the wrists hardness and rash on wrists. Also would like
to
> know if I am placing the pads correctly to benefit the problems I
have
> described. Also using the 6 volt is there a way to cross the brain
with
> out doing damage? Thank you so much I am noticing things which I
> believe are healthy changes. If anyone has comments on the bumps or
> rash I would appreciate them.
>

I would think a doctor would do the ultimate, and our group would do
what they can find in a supermarket.  once I got us out of Radio Shack
and away from elegance we flew.   the connoisseur would do a better
job, but we need the sponges and alum foil for most people to get them
started with it.
bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "M. Richmond"
<rollouts@...> wrote:
>
> bG,
>    Have any of your hobbyists ever considered using silver wire mesh
or
> silver impregnated cloth instead of sponges for their large sized
> contacts? I would think attaching the wires would be simpler, as from
> what I have been reading seems to be the biggest problem for non-
> functioning zillers.
> Dr. Becker seems to have favored it.
>

I can tolerate fine gold and fine silver. I have used the paddles and
gutzilla on my wrists for the blood purificatin. Now in the last few
days I notice my skin texture on wrists have gotten a little harder and
there are some dry rash bumps under the skin. I am also finding many
bumps skattered on other parts of my body.  I am treating for mold,
Mycoplasma, Chlymedia Pneumonia, Lymes, Asthma,and Multiple Sclerosis
and enlarged lymph glands under arms.  I am placing the 4X8" sponge
gutzilla pads under arms and on chest with current flowing over armpit
glands, front to back over bladder, front to back over lungs, front to
back over bowels, across from one breast to the other breast, from knee
to waist and across face from cheek to cheek and from jaw to jaw. I am
hoping to aleviate all pathogens from my body.  I feel there may be
some infections in my brain but fear going across it as I feel some
woozyness from cheek to cheek and Jaw to Jaw. Any comments are welcome
regarding the wrists hardness and rash on wrists. Also would like to
know if I am placing the pads correctly to benefit the problems I have
described. Also using the 6 volt is there a way to cross the brain with
out doing damage? Thank you so much I am noticing things which I
believe are healthy changes. If anyone has comments on the bumps or
rash I would appreciate them.

I've tested the device and felt a strong pulse on my wrist. My brother
remedied it by replacing 100k pot to 500k and it's comfortable now.
The problem is someone told me that the circuit is putting out DC
switched on and off that's why it's flashing only on green. He says
some voltmeter can read its output incorrectly as AC. I'm afraid it
might do damage to me rather than good if it is in DC. I just wanna
try using it alternately with godzilla. I guess I have to continue
electrifiying with godzilla. I've already started it anyway and it's
running smoothly with me. Many thanks bG.


--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>
> you should be able to feel the current pulsating (it's one of the
> problems).  the LED is to be used to test, not to run with, or it eats
> a lot of current.  If you have 3 batteries, add a fourth one.  I like
> to put a .1mfd non-polar or ceramic capacitor across the output leads
> to dampen the spike, but that is not "pure Beck" so you may not want
> it.  I like the Beck devices but set them to 1/60 hertz or one change
> of current every 30 seconds, that works best for me.
>
> :)
> bG
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maujm07"
> <maujm07@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want to ask if you
> > could help about my beck device which was built by my brother last
> > month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not flash from green to
> > red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it should flash alternately
> > which indicates a reverse polarity. My brother already check the
> > device with a tester and said its output is an AC current. I ask
> > Carole from Sharing Health and told me that the led bi-colour that I
> > bought could be different. She also told me that I can use the device
> > coz the current is already AC. Please give me some advice. Thanks in
> > advance.
> >
> > Mau
> > From the Philippines
> >
>

bG,
    Have any of your hobbyists ever considered using silver wire mesh or
silver impregnated cloth instead of sponges for their large sized
contacts? I would think attaching the wires would be simpler, as from
what I have been reading seems to be the biggest problem for non-
functioning zillers.
Dr. Becker seems to have favored it.

I have an on-off-on switch on my godzilla, but wish to have a timer I can
set for varying polarity reversals. I have heard of using the  555 chip to
do this. Do you have any plans or instruction as to how to install it in the
circuit? Thanks.


----- Original Message -----
From: "baby_grand" <bobluhrs@...>
To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 2:04 PM
Subject: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Re: beck device


> you should be able to feel the current pulsating (it's one of the
> problems).  the LED is to be used to test, not to run with, or it eats
> a lot of current.  If you have 3 batteries, add a fourth one.  I like
> to put a .1mfd non-polar or ceramic capacitor across the output leads
> to dampen the spike, but that is not "pure Beck" so you may not want
> it.  I like the Beck devices but set them to 1/60 hertz or one change
> of current every 30 seconds, that works best for me.
>
> :)
> bG
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maujm07"
> <maujm07@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want to ask if you
> > could help about my beck device which was built by my brother last
> > month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not flash from green to
> > red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it should flash alternately
> > which indicates a reverse polarity. My brother already check the
> > device with a tester and said its output is an AC current. I ask
> > Carole from Sharing Health and told me that the led bi-colour that I
> > bought could be different. She also told me that I can use the device
> > coz the current is already AC. Please give me some advice. Thanks in
> > advance.
> >
> > Mau
> > From the Philippines
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.4.0/762 - Release Date: 4/15/07
4:22 PM
>
>

you should be able to feel the current pulsating (it's one of the
problems).  the LED is to be used to test, not to run with, or it eats
a lot of current.  If you have 3 batteries, add a fourth one.  I like
to put a .1mfd non-polar or ceramic capacitor across the output leads
to dampen the spike, but that is not "pure Beck" so you may not want
it.  I like the Beck devices but set them to 1/60 hertz or one change
of current every 30 seconds, that works best for me.

:)
bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maujm07"
<maujm07@...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want to ask if you
> could help about my beck device which was built by my brother last
> month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not flash from green to
> red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it should flash alternately
> which indicates a reverse polarity. My brother already check the
> device with a tester and said its output is an AC current. I ask
> Carole from Sharing Health and told me that the led bi-colour that I
> bought could be different. She also told me that I can use the device
> coz the current is already AC. Please give me some advice. Thanks in
> advance.
>
> Mau
> From the Philippines
>

Hi guys! I just recently joined the group. I just want to ask if you
could help about my beck device which was built by my brother last
month. The problem is the bi-colour led did not flash from green to
red. It only flashes on green. Beck stated it should flash alternately
which indicates a reverse polarity. My brother already check the
device with a tester and said its output is an AC current. I ask
Carole from Sharing Health and told me that the led bi-colour that I
bought could be different. She also told me that I can use the device
coz the current is already AC. Please give me some advice. Thanks in
advance.

Mau
From the Philippines

Thanks for you help guys

I meant .1mfd capacitor (everybody knows, just being persnikety).
bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>
> I bought two of these auto units, the cost is very low for what you
> get.
>
> My only addition to them would be a ceramic .1ma capacitor across the

I bought two of these auto units, the cost is very low for what you
get.

My only addition to them would be a ceramic .1ma capacitor across the
output leads to dampen the spikes.  I will add that to mine.  This unit
may not be ideal for the use with godzilla pads, however, since you
need a lot of current and this one is limited to 2.5ma or so.

The 6 volt battery is probably the best for the bigger godzilla pads
or "gutzilla" for HIV in the intestines.

bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "redtruck99"
<redtruck99@...> wrote:
>
> I managed to make a godzilla, about $10.
> Then I got one already made, with a dial and switches, and you don't
> have to move the electrodes, much easier, and the cost is reasonable.
>
> http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla/details.htm
>
> SammyJo
>
> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maxkd2000"
> <gary@> wrote:
> >
> > I am totally new to electronics.I suffer from c.f.s and want to try
>

I managed to make a godzilla, about $10.
Then I got one already made, with a dial and switches, and you don't
have to move the electrodes, much easier, and the cost is reasonable.

http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla/details.htm

SammyJo

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "maxkd2000"
<gary@...> wrote:
>
> I am totally new to electronics.I suffer from c.f.s and want to try

I am totally new to electronics.I suffer from c.f.s and want to try and
make a unit to see if it will help relieve my fatigue.I would be most
grateful if anyone can post or email me an "idiots" guide to make
one.The simpler the better tho it does has to be effective,i saw a pic
of what was just a 6v battery with wires on it,surely this wouldnt kill
my viruses etc would it? doesnt it have to change polarity and or
frequency? if not then cool ill try it but im a bit sceptical.I really
want to give this electrification a fair trial then least i know if it
didnt help me i did do it correctly.Ill be amazed if it does work but
if it does then ill be eternally greatful!

Thanks guys


max

i have to say lots of people are using it freely without bad reports.
The worst I heard was they allowed the wires to touch and it got hot
(duh).  I hope nobody burns the house down, but other than that it's
allowed lots of people in the door. Just the ease of making it, along
with the readily available parts gets people moving with it.

bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, Don Hildreth
<w6nrw2@...> wrote:
>
>
> --- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:
>
> Clearly
> bGs apprentice godzilla is the most cost
> effective and safe device out there.
> >
>

--- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:

> I received photos. My current project already has
> components installed ina
> lid of a plastic box. As for the glued-together
> 9v's, doesn't that exceed
> the 6v l imit BG set? I see no limiting  device
> attached.

The 1000 Ohm resistor connected between the
junction of the two batteries and one electrode
wire is the limiting device.  It is small so
you may have to magnify the photo to see it.
In my view it makes 9 Volt batteries safe.  But
the device can be fabricated using 6 Volt
batteries if you choose.  That is certainly true
if you don't use the limiting resistor. Clearly
bGs apprentice godzilla is the most cost
effective and safe device out there.
>

> > Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel
> sites to find flight and
> hotel bargains.
> > http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.15/728 -
> Release Date: 3/20/07
> 8:07 AM
> >
> >
>
>





________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
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I received photos. My current project already has components installed ina
lid of a plastic box. As for the glued-together 9v's, doesn't that exceed
the 6v l imit BG set? I see no limiting  device attached.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hildreth" <w6nrw2@...>
To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Toss the switch!.a.b.c


>
> --- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:
>
> > Yes,
> > I received the small diagram. Will appreciate any
> > others. Yes, I will
> > install the protective resister. I knew a Don
> > Hildreth in Yellowstone in the
> > 50s.
> > What is a VOM? bob
>
> Re what is VOM --
>
> Back in the 1930's a small instrument became popular.
> It was based on a 50 to 100 microamp panel meter that
> included a battery, some resistors and a rotory switch
> that enable us to measure Volts, Ohms, or
> Milliamperes,
> hence: VOM.
> Starting in the '70s as we transitioned into
> solid-state
> replacing vacuum tubes and started using digital
> read-outs, the Digital(readout) started to replace all
> of
> the information that used to be printed on the scale
> of the original VOM.  We now use digital VOMs.  My
> info
> on using a digital VOM to read the microampere
> currents
> when using a godzilla, or godzilla like device, which
> included a 1000 Ohm resistor, was based upon a 4 digit
> intrument.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Don Hildreth" <w6nrw2@...>
> > To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 11:37 AM
> > Subject: Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Toss the
> > switch!.a.b
> >
> >
> > > I tried to send you a foto (jpg) and a brief
> > schematic
> > > also jpg and they were rejected by this yahoo
> > group
> > > system.  Again today I sent the schematic to your
> > > email
> > > address . . . 'hasn't been rejected so far. If you
> > > have received it, you will notice that it includes
> > a
> > > 1000 ohm resistor in series with one electrode
> > lead.
> > > That resistor--although labeled as 'optional' is
> > very
> > > desireable.  It protects you, the batteries, the
> > pot
> > > in the event that the electrode leads are
> > accidentally
> > > shorted.  Also it provides for a convenient
> > > instrumentation source when used with any
> > el-cheapo
> > > digital voltmeter -- 1 milliamp is indicated as 1
> > > volt,
> > > or 200 microamps shows as 0.200 volts etc. As
> > standard
> > > practice I use that technique with a godzilla or
> > any
> > > other device.
> > >
> > > The main reason I mention this is to encourage you
> > to
> > > add a few 1K (1000 Ohm) resistors and a a digital
> > VOM
> > > to your list of equipment. 1/4 Watt is fine and
> > easy
> > > to work with.
> > >
> > > If you have received and schematic, I will attempt
> > > again to send the foto of my arrangement that
> > doesn't
> > > require any enclosure for mounting parts.
> > >
> > > AllElectronics is a good supplier.  I've never had
> > > any problems with them
> > >
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.15/728 - Release Date: 3/20/07
8:07 AM
>
>

--- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:

> Yes,
> I received the small diagram. Will appreciate any
> others. Yes, I will
> install the protective resister. I knew a Don
> Hildreth in Yellowstone in the
> 50s.
> What is a VOM? bob

Re what is VOM --

Back in the 1930's a small instrument became popular.
It was based on a 50 to 100 microamp panel meter that
included a battery, some resistors and a rotory switch
that enable us to measure Volts, Ohms, or
Milliamperes,
hence: VOM.
Starting in the '70s as we transitioned into
solid-state
replacing vacuum tubes and started using digital
read-outs, the Digital(readout) started to replace all
of
the information that used to be printed on the scale
of the original VOM.  We now use digital VOMs.  My
info
on using a digital VOM to read the microampere
currents
when using a godzilla, or godzilla like device, which
included a 1000 Ohm resistor, was based upon a 4 digit
intrument.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hildreth" <w6nrw2@...>
> To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 11:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Toss the
> switch!.a.b
>
>
> > I tried to send you a foto (jpg) and a brief
> schematic
> > also jpg and they were rejected by this yahoo
> group
> > system.  Again today I sent the schematic to your
> > email
> > address . . . 'hasn't been rejected so far. If you
> > have received it, you will notice that it includes
> a
> > 1000 ohm resistor in series with one electrode
> lead.
> > That resistor--although labeled as 'optional' is
> very
> > desireable.  It protects you, the batteries, the
> pot
> > in the event that the electrode leads are
> accidentally
> > shorted.  Also it provides for a convenient
> > instrumentation source when used with any
> el-cheapo
> > digital voltmeter -- 1 milliamp is indicated as 1
> > volt,
> > or 200 microamps shows as 0.200 volts etc. As
> standard
> > practice I use that technique with a godzilla or
> any
> > other device.
> >
> > The main reason I mention this is to encourage you
> to
> > add a few 1K (1000 Ohm) resistors and a a digital
> VOM
> > to your list of equipment. 1/4 Watt is fine and
> easy
> > to work with.
> >
> > If you have received and schematic, I will attempt
> > again to send the foto of my arrangement that
> doesn't
> > require any enclosure for mounting parts.
> >
> > AllElectronics is a good supplier.  I've never had
> > any problems with them
> >



________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

Yes,
I received the small diagram. Will appreciate any others. Yes, I will
install the protective resister. I knew a Don Hildreth in Yellowstone in the
50s.
What is a VOM? bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hildreth" <w6nrw2@...>
To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Toss the switch!.a.b


> I tried to send you a foto (jpg) and a brief schematic
> also jpg and they were rejected by this yahoo group
> system.  Again today I sent the schematic to your
> email
> address . . . 'hasn't been rejected so far. If you
> have received it, you will notice that it includes a
> 1000 ohm resistor in series with one electrode lead.
> That resistor--although labeled as 'optional' is very
> desireable.  It protects you, the batteries, the pot
> in the event that the electrode leads are accidentally
> shorted.  Also it provides for a convenient
> instrumentation source when used with any el-cheapo
> digital voltmeter -- 1 milliamp is indicated as 1
> volt,
> or 200 microamps shows as 0.200 volts etc. As standard
> practice I use that technique with a godzilla or any
> other device.
>
> The main reason I mention this is to encourage you to
> add a few 1K (1000 Ohm) resistors and a a digital VOM
> to your list of equipment. 1/4 Watt is fine and easy
> to work with.
>
> If you have received and schematic, I will attempt
> again to send the foto of my arrangement that doesn't
> require any enclosure for mounting parts.
>
> AllElectronics is a good supplier.  I've never had
> any problems with them
>
>
> --- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Don. Yes, there is a Radio Shack near, but
> > being disabled I tend to
> > order the following things from AllElectronics. I
> > have: . . . .
> >
>
>
>
>
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I tried to send you a foto (jpg) and a brief schematic
also jpg and they were rejected by this yahoo group
system.  Again today I sent the schematic to your
email
address . . . 'hasn't been rejected so far. If you
have received it, you will notice that it includes a
1000 ohm resistor in series with one electrode lead.
That resistor--although labeled as 'optional' is very
desireable.  It protects you, the batteries, the pot
in the event that the electrode leads are accidentally
shorted.  Also it provides for a convenient
instrumentation source when used with any el-cheapo
digital voltmeter -- 1 milliamp is indicated as 1
volt,
or 200 microamps shows as 0.200 volts etc. As standard
practice I use that technique with a godzilla or any
other device.

The main reason I mention this is to encourage you to
add a few 1K (1000 Ohm) resistors and a a digital VOM
to your list of equipment. 1/4 Watt is fine and easy
to work with.

If you have received and schematic, I will attempt
again to send the foto of my arrangement that doesn't
require any enclosure for mounting parts.

AllElectronics is a good supplier.  I've never had
any problems with them


--- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:

> Thanks, Don. Yes, there is a Radio Shack near, but
> being disabled I tend to
> order the following things from AllElectronics. I
> have: . . . .
>



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--- Joe <aubug2@...> wrote:

> --- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com,
> "w6nrw2"
> <w6nrw2@...> wrote:
> >
>
> "Your  philosophy  is  sound  except  for  1  thing
-
>  There  is  a
> place  near  the  end  of  each  pot  range  where
> the  power
> could  exceed  the  rating  &  fry  the  pot
> element".

True if you are near either pot extreme and you short
the electrode wires.  And if you do that with the
switch system . . . or without using a switch, you
kill the battery LOL.

All of your comments are good and true, Joe, Thanks

>
> > Toss the switch.  Here is an alternative
> > that I use and prefer:  I use a veneral
> > bridge design . . . Don



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--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "w6nrw2"
<w6nrw2@...> wrote:
>

Your  philosophy  is  sound  except  for  1  thing -  There  is  a
place  near  the  end  of  each  pot  range  where  the  power
could  exceed  the  rating  &  fry  the  pot  element.   Prevent
that  by  adding  a  range  limit  resistor  on  each  pot  end
terminal  so  the  supply  current  is  limited. Values  near  1 K
will  do  fine.    100 K  is  a  reasonable  compromise  between
unneeded  battery  drain  &  the  non-linearity  that  gets
introduced  re  shaft  rotation  &  load.

10 K  would  reduce  the  non-linearity  effects  but  raise
battery  waste  energy.

Joe.

> Toss the switch.  Here is an alternative
> that I use and prefer:  I use a veneral
> bridge design, a pair of bateries in
> series that provide a center tap which
> is the connection for one electrode.
> Each end of a 100K variable resistor is
> connected to each end of the battery
> pack with the center arm of the VR
> going to your other electrode. With
> the VR set to the center point of its
> rotation, the voltage between the
> electrodes is zero.  When the VR is
> rotated right toward its extreme, the
> voltage rises in a plus directon.
> Then when the pot is rotated left,
> the voltage fed to the electrodes
> moves smoothly down through zero and
> rises toward the negative maximum.
>
> It is very smooth, no spikes and no
> capacitor needed.
>
> If you instrument the current, you
> can easily select any value you
> may want between zero and the maximum
> availabe.
>

damn sorry, wire 1-6, 2-5.

bG
--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "baby_grand"
<bobluhrs@...> wrote:
>
> I must've deleted the original godzilla device photos in a fit of
> efficiency.
>
> Ok, so you use a dpdt switch with center off.
>
> Stand the pins upright tall.  Your switch has 1,2 on top,3,4
> middle,5,6 botoom pins.  wire 1-5, 2-6.  That will look like an X
> across the pins connecting the endmost to the endmost with a criss-
> cross pattern.
>
> You then connect your output lead to 3 and 4.   You connect your
> input leads either to 1,2 or 5.6.  Not both, choose one pair or
the
> other it does not matter which.
>
> That will give you a reversing switch.
>
> Now, if you really want the best solution, connect a .1mfd
capacitor
> either ceramic or non-polar cannister type to 3,4.  That will
> provide a damping tank that will ease or remove the spike when you
> flip the switch.
>
> This is golden info, so take it seriously, your comfort and
> usability is at stake  :)
>
> bG
>

I must've deleted the original godzilla device photos in a fit of
efficiency.

Ok, so you use a dpdt switch with center off.

Stand the pins upright tall.  Your switch has 1,2 on top,3,4
middle,5,6 botoom pins.  wire 1-5, 2-6.  That will look like an X
across the pins connecting the endmost to the endmost with a criss-
cross pattern.

You then connect your output lead to 3 and 4.   You connect your
input leads either to 1,2 or 5.6.  Not both, choose one pair or the
other it does not matter which.

That will give you a reversing switch.

Now, if you really want the best solution, connect a .1mfd capacitor
either ceramic or non-polar cannister type to 3,4.  That will
provide a damping tank that will ease or remove the spike when you
flip the switch.

This is golden info, so take it seriously, your comfort and
usability is at stake  :)

bG

lovely, wish I had a schematic I'm a dunce.

bG

--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "w6nrw2"
<w6nrw2@...> wrote:
>
> Toss the switch.  Here is an alternative
> that I use and prefer:  I use a veneral
> bridge design, a pair of bateries in
> series that provide a center tap which
> is the connection for one electrode.
> Each end of a 100K variable resistor is
> connected to each end of the battery
> pack with the center arm of the VR
> going to your other electrode. With
> the VR set to the center point of its
> rotation, the voltage between the
> electrodes is zero.  When the VR is
> rotated right toward its extreme, the
> voltage rises in a plus directon.
> Then when the pot is rotated left,
> the voltage fed to the electrodes
> moves smoothly down through zero and
> rises toward the negative maximum.
>
> It is very smooth, no spikes and no
> capacitor needed.
>
> If you instrument the current, you
> can easily select any value you
> may want between zero and the maximum
> availabe.
>

Thanks, Don. Yes, there is a Radio Shack near, but being disabled I tend to
order the following things from AllElectronics. I have:
     DPDT on-off-on switch, screws
     6v lantern battery, screw terminals
     10 ft ea. green, red wires, #14
     potentiometer, slim spade connectors
     0-100 microamp ammeter, panel type
     banana ends for various type electrodes
     banana sockets
     soldering iron, solder
     plastic box
     two ocelo sponges
     two sponge paintbrushes
     intend power-on led
     have no diodes, resisters, etc .... ignorant of them.
     plenty of CS


----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hildreth" <w6nrw2@...>
To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Toss the switch!.a


>
> --- lodgpole <lodgpole@...> wrote:
>
> > Since I think with my eyes instead of my ears, I
> > would sure like to see a
> > diagram of that! bob
>
> I would like to help, but I need some sort of a
> reference.  Do you have a local radioshack store?
> Do you solder, or have a source of bare copper
> wire?  Give me a starting point, please. Don H
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "w6nrw2" <w6nrw2@...>
> > To: <microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:25 AM
> > Subject: [microelectricitygermkiller2] Toss the
> > switch!
> >
> >
> > >
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.11/721 - Release Date: 3/13/07
4:51 PM
>
>