NO!!! That won't work at all! The two large connections on the
solenoid are like the two connections on a lightswitch, when the
switch is "off" there is no connection between the connections, when
the switch is "on" the two connections are connected together. This is
called an SPST switch. Like this ._-_. for off and .__. for ON. The
dots at the ends are like the connections. The two small connectors
are the ones for powering the coil that operates the switch or
solenoid. Theoretically speaking, it shouldn't matter which side of
either connection is + or which is -, just so long as you have a means
of switching the battery connection to one of the small connections
off and on. One large connector goes to, say, the - battery terminal,
the other large connector goes to the top end of the coil, and the
other end of the coil goes to the + battery terminal. I believe the
the small "S" terminal can connect to the battery + terminal, and when
the small "I" terminal is connected to the battery - terminal, the
solenoid should operate, and the power flows through the coil. You
will need to put a switch, say a pushbutton momentary (one that is
only closed for as long as you push it) with one terminal connected to
the I terminal and the other to the battery. That pushbutton needs to
be pretty rugged, since I hear 20-30 amps can flow through it for a
couple hundred milliseconds, then falling off to a fraction of that
for the duration. Anyway, then when you push the pushbutton, the
solenoid should operate, and power flow through the coil. I would
recomment testing the small terminal portion first, to make sure it
functions as I have described.

I would NOT use a deep cycle battery for this! Those batteries are
designed for lower current. They are used when you often run the
battery close to totally discharged. They can LITERALLY EXPLODE if too
much current is drawn from them! I would use a regular starter
battery, as they are designed differently from the deep cycle
batteries internally, specifically for the high currents that starting
a car takes. Also, I would operate this monster a few times BEFORE
putting the coil cable around your chest, just to make sure the
contacts DON'T arc. A fix for that would be to connect a heavy duty
electrolytic capacitor to the large terminals, matching + to + and -
to -. The old distributor that cars used to have used this idea, it
was called a condensor then, and it kept the points from arcing and
failing early. I would guess 1,000 microfarads or so should work for
the split second you need it to, and be sure to use one rated for at
least 16 volts DC! You might want to install the capacitor anyway,
just in case, for insurance!

One last thing, I would NOT use this alone!! I would have somebody
right there, with a large pair of wirecutters, ready to cut the main
wire between the battery and solenoid, if necessary! Seeing as this
really IS potentially dangerous, I have to wonder WHY you wish to do
it? There are MANY ways that are documented to stop pain short of
doing this, and most of them are MUCH safer!

Best wishes!

Ken




--- In microelectricitygermkiller2@yahoogroups.com, "fuertepazmado"
<fuertepazmado@...> wrote:
>
> So the + and - cables from the battery are connected to the large
> terminals on the side of the solenoid. Let's say I'll connect + to the
> large terminal that is closest to the small terminal on top which is
> marked "I" and - will connect to the large terminal on the other side
> which is closest to the small terminal on top marked "S".
>
> Next one end of the coil is connected to small terminal "I" and the
> other end of the coil connects to the switch (horn button) which is
> connected to small terminal "S".
> Is this correct?
>
> ```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
> >
> > Either way works. Keep in mind the inside uses a copper
> > disc to close the ckt; activated by the coil around a
> > ferrite coil core.
> >
> > When you have 2 small terminals - is typically a Ford
> > solenoid, one goes to each coil wire end [they are
> > typically about 2.5" high from top of the tin lid to
> > bottom of the bakelite case; all others are longer,
> > foreign may be skinier]. One goes to ground, other goes
> > to the switch. The reason Fords are used consistently is -
>
> > the starter bendix ass'y is innertial, self engages when
> > the motor armature rotates; all others have to overcome a
> > stiff spring to engage. More solenoids have only 1 small
> > terminal than 2; other coil connection is inside the case,
> > to the mount bracket, won't work if not grounded.
> >
> >
> >
>