As a vet for 30 years I always had a keen interest in this topic, but
before I relate my own experience, and ask you for yours, I would
like to quote Adam Katz, author of "Secrets of a Professional Dog
Trainer" - see
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/external-search/?keyword=secrets+training+dog&\
tag=pigdiseaseinform&mode=books
FIRST - SOME BAD ADVICE!
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Adam rejects some of the "off the wall" advice that is around...
* "Run away!"
(Adam comments: "You cannot outrun a dog. Even a big, heavy slow dog
like as a Rottweiler. Do not try to run or move quickly as you will
turn into 'PREY!' "
* "Shove your hand further down the dog's throat!"
(I expect this "wag" had to have someone else type this masterly
advice for him/her!!!)
* "Kick at the dog's paws because they are a sensitive area!"
(Adam comments: "Stomping on his paws will only make him sink his
teeth into your flesh even faster and harder!")
NOW SOME GOOD ADVICE!
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Adam goes on to advise...
"If the dog is a trained personal protection or police dog...Your
best chance of surviving is to stand absolutely still. If you are
unarmed, and you try to fight the dog, you will lose. The dog is fast
enough to bite you two or three times before you even realize where
you've been bit!"
"If the dog is not a professionally trained dog, you may be able to
intimidate the dog with forward-leaning body language and moving
directly in towards the dog, making direct eye contact. However, make
sure that the dog has an easy way to turn and escape. If he feels
cornered, you're in big trouble! Although this technique will work
very often, there is still a good chance that you may get bitten.
Better to stay still and call for help, or back away slowly until you
can get to an object that will help separate you from the dog."
"It is a myth that a well trained dog is taught to bite and hold on
to one arm. A good dog that is taught to bite the arm will also be
taught to release the first arm and bite the other arm when it comes
close to his face. Furthermore, many trained dogs are taught to take
chest bites, back bites, leg bites, etc..."
"Stun guns often work well to deter untrained dogs. The electrical
sound will very often scare them away. Pepper spray works well on
some dogs. On others, it is ineffective. Aim for the nose!"
"Kicking or punching a trained dog will be ineffective. We've
documented several cases where large breed dogs were latched on to an
individual and neighbors ran out and beat the dogs over the head with
baseball bats and the dogs did not let go."
My own experiences?
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In the UK it is illegal to carry pepper sprays or stun guns.
With guard dog breeds, standing still and quiet has worked very well
for me, especially when accompanied by calm (not easy!) and eye
contact "I am not afraid of you, you shuld not be doing this. I have
felt their teeth a few times, but by not reacting have avoided broken
skin, bruised flesh or worse.
With untrained "snappy, yappy" dogs, a stern voice and forward
posture has worked well for me.
For separating non-guard, non-bull terrier, dogs who are fighting, I
have found that grabbing the rear legs and turning the dog (that is
winning!) over or pulling it away works very well. I have always been
amazed that, once separated, dogs rarely return to the conflict.
Dog catchers" have been improvised with a pole and a noose on the end
where the dog is not too strong.
"Backing off" can work well with dogs that are "fear biters" or where
you are encroaching on their territory and they are not "attack"
breeds.
One of the attacks most dreaded is the bull terrier type attack,
where the dog bites and clamps on - possibly steadily "encroaching"
its steady grip. I have always thought I would try "pessure on the
dogs eyeballs" or "a strike to the eyes" in this situation, but
fortunately have never yet had to test this theory out!
Your Experiences?
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Since we have at least 2 experienced dog trainers on CHEAL, it would
be good to have their experiences and advice on this? Or indeed
anyone else!